{"id":27996,"date":"2025-10-12T23:24:31","date_gmt":"2025-10-12T21:24:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/en\/?p=27996"},"modified":"2025-10-12T23:24:37","modified_gmt":"2025-10-12T21:24:37","slug":"what-does-the-return-of-the-bumster-say-about-womens-fashion-today","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/en\/what-does-the-return-of-the-bumster-say-about-womens-fashion-today\/","title":{"rendered":"What does the return of the \u201cbumster\u201d say about women\u2019s fashion today?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Long criticized, the ultra\u2013low waist is making a striking comeback on the runways. Leading the charge is Sean McGirr at Alexander McQueen, who has resurrected the iconic \u201cbumster.\u201d A timely <\/em>revival<\/em><\/strong> for the British fashion house.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A McQueen legacy brought back into play<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Two years after his appointment at McQueen, Sean McGirr<\/strong> continues to make the house\u2019s legacy his own. For Spring-Summer 2026, he\u2019s bringing back an iconic piece: the \u201cbumster<\/strong>,\u201d the ultra\u2013low-rise pants created by the late Alexander McQueen <\/strong>in 1993.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the time, fashion\u2019s other enfant terrible sought to reshape the silhouette: revealing the top of the buttocks,<\/strong> lengthening the torso<\/strong>. In short, challenging conventions. A radical, body-hugging piece that became iconic. His successor, Sarah Burton<\/strong>, had already revived it in 2023 before leaving the house for Givenchy<\/strong>. Today, Sean McGirr is bringing it back once again.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A choice that\u2019s far from trivial, as the Kering group<\/strong> which owns the brand is going through a delicate period: declining results, strategic adjustments, and a game of musical chairs among creative directors to reinvigorate its houses<\/strong>. In this context, this dive into McQueen\u2019s archives appears as a clear attempt at repositioning<\/strong>, drawing from the past to better secure the future.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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But will this return to fundamentals be enough to make Sean McGirr a true successor worthy of the McQueen legend?<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A feminine silhouette with unrestrained sensuality<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Unlike previous seasons, Sean McGirr\u2019s Spring-Summer 2026 collection is entirely feminine with the \u201cbumster<\/strong>\u201d as its central thread. Reinterpreted as tailored trousers, a low-rise skirt, or utility shorts, it forms the foundation of a hybrid wardrobe that bridges classic<\/strong> tailoring<\/em><\/strong> and grunge<\/em><\/strong> spirit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here, sensuality no longer depends on the slender silhouettes of early-2000s icons like Kate Moss<\/strong> or Alexa Chung<\/strong>. While the lower back is still highlighted, curves are now fully embraced. McGirr doesn\u2019t try to conceal the body\u2019s shape but rather works with it,<\/strong> mainly through skirts worn low on the hips, accentuated by side pockets<\/strong> that subtly redefine the line of the pelvis.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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These pockets are not merely aesthetic as they also reflect a desire to combine sex appeal<\/strong> with functionality<\/strong>. It\u2019s a way of saying that the body can be revealed without being vulnerable<\/strong>, and that clothing is not just a tool of seduction.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The overall mood evokes a strong indie sleaze<\/em><\/strong> vibe, where Y2K codes are revisited with irony: smudged black eyeliner, an officer jacket worn directly on bare skin, and a nonchalant<\/strong>, almost defiant attitude. A liberated femininity that laughs in the face of convention.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Unapologetically ultra-sexy\u2026 but still gendered<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Among the show\u2019s strongest statements was the thong worn high<\/strong>, deliberately visible above the low-rise pants. A direct provocation, reinterpreted through a couture lens. Another nod to Y2K <\/em>hyper-sexualization came in the form of micro-miniskirts barely wider than a belt<\/strong>, echoing the styles popularized in recent seasons by Diesel<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But this approach applies only to female bodies<\/strong>. No masculine silhouette <\/strong>comes to blur the lines and that\u2019s where the gesture loses its strength. By invoking symbols of bodily liberation, Sean McGirr nonetheless remains confined to a gendered interpretation<\/strong> of what can be considered sexy. The female body continues to serve as the sole vehicle for provocation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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By comparison, Anthony Vaccarello<\/strong> at Saint Laurent<\/strong> pushes the questioning of norms even further: when he sends men down the runway in thigh-high<\/strong> boots, he subverts gender codes in a truly subversive way. Where McGirr seduces<\/strong>, Vaccarello destabilizes<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

With this revival of the bumster<\/strong>, Sean McGirr delivers a collection that ticks all the right boxes: respect for the archives, alignment with current trends, and a polished execution. It\u2019s a visually effective proposition but one that still sorely lacks boldness<\/strong>. By centering everything on the female body, merely reasserted and above all sexualized, McGirr serves up a reheated version of yesterday\u2019s provocations.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Long criticized, the ultra\u2013low waist is making a striking comeback on the runways. Leading the charge is Sean McGirr at Alexander McQueen, who has resurrected the iconic \u201cbumster.\u201d A timely revival for the British fashion house.\u00a0 A McQueen legacy brought back into play Two years after his appointment at McQueen, Sean McGirr continues to make […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":28003,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[452,122,450],"tags":[778,779,502,707,454,481,777],"class_list":["post-27996","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brands","category-fashion","category-style","tag-alexander-mcqueen","tag-bumster","tag-fashion-week","tag-mcqueen","tag-paris-fashion-week","tag-pfw-2","tag-sean-mcgirr","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\nWhat does the return of the \u201cbumster\u201d say about women\u2019s fashion today? 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