{"id":31754,"date":"2025-05-10T14:28:47","date_gmt":"2025-05-10T14:28:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/?p=31754"},"modified":"2025-05-26T13:02:18","modified_gmt":"2025-05-26T13:02:18","slug":"tendance-mode-cravate-retour-unisexe","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/tendance-mode-cravate-retour-unisexe\/","title":{"rendered":"La cravate, accessoire classique devenu objet mode"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Cravate, de l\u2019uniforme rigide \u00e0 l\u2019accessoire subversif <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Longtemps cantonn\u00e9e aux bancs de l\u2019\u00e9cole ou aux r\u00e9unions d\u2019entreprise, la cravate s\u2019offre une seconde vie \u2014 bien plus cool et d\u00e9cal\u00e9e. Cet accessoire trouve aujourd\u2019hui sa place dans des vestiaires hybrides, au croisement du tailoring, du streetwear et des exp\u00e9rimentations couture. Retour sur un objet qui traverse les \u00e9poques et les genres.<\/em>
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Impossible de dissocier la cravate de l\u2019uniforme classique masculin<\/strong>. \u00c9l\u00e9ment central du costume, elle repr\u00e9sente depuis le XIXe si\u00e8cle une certaine id\u00e9e du s\u00e9rieux et du pouvoir. Dans les sph\u00e8res professionnelles, elle s\u2019est impos\u00e9e comme un code presque intangible, symbole de rigueur et de conformit\u00e9. Porter une cravate revient \u00e0 afficher une forme de respect \u00e0 un cadre formel ou hi\u00e9rarchique. Mais avant m\u00eame cette codification moderne, la cravate \u00e9tait d\u00e9j\u00e0 un marqueur social<\/strong> : un accessoire port\u00e9 par les \u00e9lites, \u00e0 la fois signe de distinction et d\u2019appartenance \u00e0 un certain milieu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Une premi\u00e8re r\u00e9volution timide<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Si les fondements de la cravate ont longtemps r\u00e9sist\u00e9, certains mouvements culturels sont venus en perturber les usages<\/strong>. Dans les ann\u00e9es 60, sous l\u2019influence des contre-cultures hippie et punk, la cravate se voit d\u00e9tourn\u00e9e : elle devient large, bariol\u00e9e voire imprim\u00e9e de motifs loufoques. Une fa\u00e7on efficace d\u2019exprimer son individualit\u00e9 tout en s\u2019appropriant un accessoire jusque-l\u00e0 strictement codifi\u00e9<\/strong>. Les ann\u00e9es 80, elles, marquent un retour en force de la cravate, notamment dans le cadre professionnel, avec un certain go\u00fbt pour l\u2019exub\u00e9rance : tailles plus g\u00e9n\u00e9reuses et couleurs franches. Une mani\u00e8re de s\u2019inscrire dans le cadre tout en y injectant un peu de personnalit\u00e9. Mais ces premi\u00e8res libert\u00e9s restent encore loin des r\u00e9interpr\u00e9tations radicales de la jeune sc\u00e8ne cr\u00e9ative actuelle.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Et les femmes dans tout \u00e7a ?<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Si la cravate est longtemps rest\u00e9e un apanage masculin, certaines figures f\u00e9minines ont, tr\u00e8s t\u00f4t, bouscul\u00e9 les normes<\/strong>. L\u2019actrice Marlene Dietrich<\/strong>, d\u00e8s les ann\u00e9es 30, en fait un outil de provocation, en restant toutefois tr\u00e8s chic. Mais c\u2019est dans les ann\u00e9es 70 que la cravate devient un v\u00e9ritable symbole d\u2019\u00e9mancipation, notamment \u00e0 travers les silhouettes cr\u00e9\u00e9es par Yves Saint Laurent<\/strong> et son mythique smoking<\/em> pour femme. Elle accompagne alors une volont\u00e9 d\u2019\u00e9galit\u00e9 et de puissance f\u00e9minine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Aujourd\u2019hui, la cravate revient en force avec la tendance officewear<\/em> : toujours chez Saint Laurent<\/strong> (automne\/hiver 2025) o\u00f9 elle habille des costumes larges, empruntant au vestiaire masculin sans rien perdre en \u00e9l\u00e9gance. Le costume-cravate devient un uniforme de pouvoir<\/strong> et de style, port\u00e9 avec autant d\u2019autorit\u00e9 par les femmes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nombreuses sont les personnalit\u00e9s publiques \u00e0 l\u2019avoir adopt\u00e9e sur tapis rouge. Exit la robe fourreau inconfortable, place au costume-cravate, qui assure une plus grande libert\u00e9 de mouvement<\/strong> \u2014 et l\u2019\u00e9l\u00e9gance d\u2019arriver, les mains dans les poches. D\u00e9cal\u00e9e avec des escarpins ou port\u00e9e \u00e0 m\u00eame la peau, la cravate devient une d\u00e9claration d\u2019ind\u00e9pendance<\/strong> et d\u2019assurance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tordre le cou \u00e0 la tradition<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Lib\u00e9r\u00e9e de ses carcans, la cravate se d\u00e9mocratise gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 la mode alternative et au streetwear<\/em><\/strong>. Elle s\u2019invite sur des silhouettes d\u00e9contract\u00e9es : hoodie<\/em>, jeans, blazer oversize<\/em>\u2026 L\u2019accessoire devient un clin d\u2019\u0153il, un statement<\/em> qui brouille les pistes. Certaines marques \u00e9mergentes la d\u00e9tournent avec humour ou po\u00e9sie : en crochet, en soie fluide, parfois m\u00eame d\u00e9structur\u00e9e, recousue, ou confectionn\u00e9e dans des mati\u00e8res inattendues. La cravate incarne d\u00e9sormais une mode unisexe et hybride, affranchie des genres et de son cadre d\u2019antan.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Les cr\u00e9ateurs ne s\u2019y trompent pas : la cravate est un accessoire \u00e0 fort potentiel. Les grandes maisons s\u2019en emparent \u00e0 leur mani\u00e8re. Chez Gucci<\/strong> (automne\/hiver 25-26), elle se m\u00e9tamorphose en bijou ou s\u2019efface en ton sur ton. Chez Schiaparelli<\/strong>, Daniel Roseberry <\/strong>la r\u00e9invente \u00e0 partir de m\u00e8ches de cheveux, avec une bonne dose de surr\u00e9alisme et un soup\u00e7on de provocation. Ces relectures sophistiqu\u00e9es c\u00f4toient celles, plus brutes mais tout aussi inventives, de la jeune sc\u00e8ne cr\u00e9ative. Chez Hodakova<\/strong> (automne 2024), elle est faite \u00e0 partir de bas et est associ\u00e9e \u00e0 une robe sculpturale r\u00e9alis\u00e9e \u00e0 partir d\u2019une mallette en cuir. Willy Chavarria<\/strong> la fait, quant \u00e0 lui, d\u00e9passer de vestes boutonn\u00e9es jusqu\u2019au col. Vaquera<\/strong> la d\u00e9cline en version XXL sur une chemise aux m\u00eames proportions exag\u00e9r\u00e9es. Egonlab, <\/strong>de son c\u00f4t\u00e9, la transforme en long foulard \u00e0 pois. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Autrefois soumise \u00e0 une fonction sociale, la cravate s\u2019est lib\u00e9r\u00e9e de ses injonctions pour devenir un v\u00e9ritable terrain d\u2019expression. Elle ne dicte plus une norme : elle \u00e9pouse des identit\u00e9s multiples, hybrides, mouvantes. Jadis embl\u00e8me d\u2019uniformit\u00e9, elle est d\u00e9sormais un v\u00e9ritable \u00e9tendard.\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Article de Julie Boone<\/strong>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Cravate, de l\u2019uniforme rigide \u00e0 l\u2019accessoire subversif  Longtemps cantonn\u00e9e aux bancs de l\u2019\u00e9cole ou aux r\u00e9unions d\u2019entreprise, la cravate s\u2019offre une seconde vie \u2014 bien plus cool et d\u00e9cal\u00e9e. Cet accessoire trouve aujourd\u2019hui sa place dans des vestiaires hybrides, au croisement du tailoring, du streetwear et des exp\u00e9rimentations couture. Retour sur un objet qui traverse […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":31777,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[122],"tags":[4087,2857,788,4091,4088,4089,3358,4090,4071,4092],"class_list":["post-31754","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","tag-cravate","tag-egonlab","tag-gucci","tag-hodakova","tag-officecore","tag-officewear","tag-saint-laurent","tag-schiaparelli","tag-vaquera","tag-willy-chavaria","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\nLa cravate, accessoire classique devenu objet mode - Sneaker Spirit<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Longtemps symbole de rigueur, la cravate s'\u00e9mancipe : mode unisexe et silhouettes affirm\u00e9es\u2026 Tour d\u2019horizon d\u2019un accessoire en mutation.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/tendance-mode-cravate-retour-unisexe\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"La cravate, accessoire classique devenu objet mode - 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