{"id":32132,"date":"2025-06-18T15:13:12","date_gmt":"2025-06-18T15:13:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/?p=32132"},"modified":"2025-06-18T15:13:14","modified_gmt":"2025-06-18T15:13:14","slug":"london-fashion-week-alternative-2025","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/london-fashion-week-alternative-2025\/","title":{"rendered":"La Fashion Week de Londres a bien eu lieu\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\">\n<p><em>Alors que la Fashion Week de Londres s&rsquo;efface temporairement, la cr\u00e9ation britannique, elle, persiste avec force et inventivit\u00e9. Martine Rose et Charles Jeffrey incarnent une mode affranchie des normes, entre exub\u00e9rance et satire sociale. Du c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la Central Saint Martins, la jeune garde dessine un avenir aussi audacieux que politique. La mode \u00e0 Londres ne suit pas les r\u00e8gles \u2014 elle les bouscule.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Martine Rose, hors cadre mais au coeur du changement\u00a0<\/strong><br><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>La saison derni\u00e8re, <strong>Martine Rose<\/strong> quittait Londres pour Milan. Cette fois, <strong>elle revient, mais hors cadre, fid\u00e8le \u00e0 sa mani\u00e8re de r\u00e9inventer les r\u00e8gles<\/strong>. Alors que la Fashion Week londonienne \u00e9tait officiellement mise entre parenth\u00e8ses, la cr\u00e9atrice a d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de pr\u00e9senter malgr\u00e9 tout. Sur un t-shirt de sa collection, un message qui r\u00e9sonne avec l\u2019\u00e9v\u00e9nement : <strong>\u00ab Everything Must Change \u00bb<\/strong>. Comme une d\u00e9claration d\u2019intention : la mode doit \u00e9voluer \u2014 la London Fashion Week aussi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"819\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Martine-Rose-SS26-13-819x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-32134\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Martine-Rose-SS26-13-819x1024.jpeg 819w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Martine-Rose-SS26-13-240x300.jpeg 240w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Martine-Rose-SS26-13-768x960.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Martine-Rose-SS26-13-1229x1536.jpeg 1229w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Martine-Rose-SS26-13-1638x2048.jpeg 1638w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Martine-Rose-SS26-13-1080x1350.jpeg 1080w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Martine-Rose-SS26-13-scaled.jpeg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 819px) 100vw, 819px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"820\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/martine-rose-tee-820x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-32136\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/martine-rose-tee-820x1024.jpg 820w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/martine-rose-tee-240x300.jpg 240w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/martine-rose-tee-768x959.jpg 768w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/martine-rose-tee.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 820px) 100vw, 820px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"819\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Martine-Rose-SS26-23-819x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-32135\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Martine-Rose-SS26-23-819x1024.jpeg 819w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Martine-Rose-SS26-23-240x300.jpeg 240w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Martine-Rose-SS26-23-768x960.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Martine-Rose-SS26-23-1229x1536.jpeg 1229w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Martine-Rose-SS26-23-1638x2048.jpeg 1638w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Martine-Rose-SS26-23-1080x1350.jpeg 1080w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Martine-Rose-SS26-23-scaled.jpeg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 819px) 100vw, 819px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Avant le <em>show<\/em>, les invit\u00e9\u00b7es traversent un espace transform\u00e9 en <strong>hall communautaire<\/strong>, o\u00f9 se m\u00ealent stands de disques, de v\u00eatements et de magazines. Plus qu\u2019un d\u00e9fil\u00e9, Martine Rose propose un <strong>rassemblement<\/strong>, o\u00f9 la cr\u00e9ation est collective. Une piste s\u00e9rieuse pour repenser le futur de la sc\u00e8ne mode britannique, \u00e0 l\u2019image de la r\u00e9cente Slow Fashion Week marseillaise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sur le podium, les silhouettes capturent une <strong>masculinit\u00e9 en mutation<\/strong> : micro-shorts et chaussettes de football, cheveux longs fris\u00e9s fa\u00e7on ann\u00e9es 80. Les accessoires d\u00e9tournent le quotidien \u2014 <strong>sacs en papier kraft partag\u00e9s par deux mannequins<\/strong>, \u00e9voquant tour \u00e0 tour le client et le livreur ; <strong>Nike Shox<\/strong> surgies du pass\u00e9 ; <strong>jerseys de foot orn\u00e9s de volants<\/strong> port\u00e9s avec des escarpins pointus. Une v\u00e9ritable <strong>galerie de personnages<\/strong>, mi-urbains mi-fantasm\u00e9s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Martine Rose ne d\u00e9file pas seulement \u2014 elle <strong>propose un nouveau syst\u00e8me<\/strong>, fond\u00e9 sur la communaut\u00e9, et la subversion des codes \u00e9tablis.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Le cacophonie ma\u00eetris\u00e9e de Charles Jeffrey\u00a0<\/strong><br><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Dans les studios mythiques d\u2019Abbey Road, <strong>Charles Jeffrey<\/strong> puise son inspiration dans l\u2019histoire et les archives du lieu. Le cr\u00e9ateur y compose une <strong>galerie de personnages fantasques<\/strong> et r\u00e9invent\u00e9s pour 2026 dans une mise en sc\u00e8ne o\u00f9 les <strong>fronti\u00e8res entre d\u00e9fil\u00e9 et performance artistique s&rsquo;effacent<\/strong>. <strong>Ici, pas de <\/strong><strong><em>show<\/em><\/strong><strong> traditionnel : les mod\u00e8les sont invit\u00e9s \u00e0 s\u2019exprimer librement, devenant eux-m\u00eames acteurs de la collection.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"819\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/CJ-13-819x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-32137\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/CJ-13-819x1024.jpg 819w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/CJ-13-240x300.jpg 240w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/CJ-13-768x960.jpg 768w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/CJ-13.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 819px) 100vw, 819px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/CJ-23-819x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-32138\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"819\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/CJ-33-819x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-32139\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/CJ-33-819x1024.jpg 819w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/CJ-33-240x300.jpg 240w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/CJ-33-768x960.jpg 768w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/CJ-33.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 819px) 100vw, 819px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Les <strong>codes maritimes sont d\u00e9tourn\u00e9s avec l\u2019exub\u00e9rance propre \u00e0 Loverboy<\/strong> : chapeaux de marin, cache-\u0153il de pirate, cordages transform\u00e9s en robes sculpturales. Casquettes de capitaine et rayures. Une chemise se porte \u00e0 l\u2019envers, ou nou\u00e9e sur la t\u00eate comme un bandana. \u00c0 l\u2019abordage !<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tartan aux pieds, peintures corporelles, imprim\u00e9s all-over, crochet d\u00e9licat, blouse d\u2019infirmier sortie de son contexte, et des <strong>n\u0153uds d\u00e9mesur\u00e9s, pos\u00e9s ici et l\u00e0 comme des ponctuations visuelles<\/strong>. Le tout compose une <strong>symphonie visuelle<\/strong>, libre et engag\u00e9e, \u00e0 l\u2019image de la d\u00e9marche \u00ab\u00a0Prepared Piano\u00a0\u00bb : <strong>impr\u00e9visible mais profond\u00e9ment orchestr\u00e9e<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>La nouvelle-garde mode de la Central Saint Martins\u00a0<\/strong><br><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>\u00c0 Londres, le d\u00e9fil\u00e9 des \u00e9tudiant\u00b7es en Master de la Central Saint Martins continue d\u2019\u00eatre un <strong>terrain d\u2019exp\u00e9rimentation radicale<\/strong>, r\u00e9v\u00e9lant une g\u00e9n\u00e9ration de cr\u00e9ateur\u00b7rices aussi conscient\u00b7es que visionnaires. Parmi les projets les plus remarqu\u00e9s cette saison :<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>R\u00e9v\u00e9l\u00e9\u00b7e notamment gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 ses collaborations avec <strong>Erykah Badu<\/strong> \u2014 dont une tenue marquante port\u00e9e lors des Billboard Awards, un <em>booty suit<\/em> seconde peau rendant hommage \u00e0 la V\u00e9nus de Willendorf \u2014 <strong>Myah<\/strong> s\u2019illustre par un travail surprenant du volume et de la mati\u00e8re. Les silhouettes sont m\u00e9tamorphos\u00e9es par une riche vari\u00e9t\u00e9 de textures, modifiant \u00e0 la fois l\u2019aspect visuel et le poids des v\u00eatements. <strong>Une recherche sculpturale, qui fait dialoguer corps, m\u00e9moire et symboles.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"840\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Badu-x-Myah-840x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-32141\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Badu-x-Myah-840x1024.jpg 840w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Badu-x-Myah-246x300.jpg 246w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Badu-x-Myah-768x936.jpg 768w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Badu-x-Myah.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 840px) 100vw, 840px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"819\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/LFW-CSM-13-819x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-32142\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/LFW-CSM-13-819x1024.jpg 819w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/LFW-CSM-13-240x300.jpg 240w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/LFW-CSM-13-768x960.jpg 768w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/LFW-CSM-13.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 819px) 100vw, 819px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"667\" height=\"828\" src=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/LFW-CSM-23.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-32140\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/LFW-CSM-23.jpg 667w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/LFW-CSM-23-242x300.jpg 242w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 667px) 100vw, 667px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Chez <strong>Seenseo<\/strong>, le v\u00eatement devient un terrain de jeu absurde. Objets int\u00e9gr\u00e9s dans des fentes textiles, coll\u00e9s \u00e0 l\u2019aide d\u2019adh\u00e9sifs ou dissimul\u00e9s dans des poches, comme une <strong>r\u00e9flexion taquine sur le rapport entre fonction et forme<\/strong>. La proposition flirte avec l\u2019esprit <em>playful<\/em> de <strong>Jonathan Anderson<\/strong> (Loewe). L\u2019humour devient ici une recette qui marche.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Avec une approche plus politique, <strong>mariesssschulze<\/strong> revisite le tailleur f\u00e9minin \u00e0 travers le prisme du pouvoir. Inspir\u00e9e par une immersion au sein du Parlement allemand, <strong>la cr\u00e9atrice d\u00e9tourne les codes rigides impos\u00e9s aux femmes en milieu institutionnel<\/strong>. R\u00e9sultat : des costumes en satin aux couleurs pastel, des poignets volontairement exag\u00e9r\u00e9s, un col qui se retourne et se r\u00e9p\u00e8te \u00e0 l\u2019infini. <strong>Une \u00e9l\u00e9gance ironique qui d\u00e9fie l\u2019uniformit\u00e9 et ouvre la voie \u00e0 une nouvelle lecture de la tenue \u00ab\u00a0professionnelle\u00a0\u00bb.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La London Fashion Week n\u2019\u00e9tait pas cens\u00e9e avoir lieu. Officiellement mise entre parenth\u00e8ses, elle a pourtant exist\u00e9 \u2014 autrement. <strong>Hors cadre, hors calendrier, mais port\u00e9e par une \u00e9nergie collective, inventive et insoumise. <\/strong>Cr\u00e9ateurs confirm\u00e9s et nouvelles voix ont prouv\u00e9 que l\u2019absence de cadre pouvait devenir un terrain fertile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Article de <strong>Julie Boone<\/strong>.&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Alors que la Fashion Week de Londres s&rsquo;efface temporairement, la cr\u00e9ation britannique, elle, persiste avec force et inventivit\u00e9. Martine Rose et Charles Jeffrey incarnent une mode affranchie des normes, entre exub\u00e9rance et satire sociale. Du c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la Central Saint Martins, la jeune garde dessine un avenir aussi audacieux que politique. La mode \u00e0 Londres [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":32138,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4060,122],"tags":[4136,4138,734,1204,4133],"class_list":["post-32132","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brands","category-fashion","tag-charles-jeffrey","tag-csm","tag-fashion-week","tag-london-fashion-week","tag-martine-rose","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>La Fashion Week de Londres a bien eu lieu\u00a0 - Sneaker Spirit<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Annul\u00e9e sur le papier, explosive dans les faits : la London Fashion Week 2025 a renvers\u00e9 les codes avec audace et sans permission.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/london-fashion-week-alternative-2025\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"La Fashion Week de Londres a bien eu lieu\u00a0 - 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