{"id":32181,"date":"2025-06-27T10:15:34","date_gmt":"2025-06-27T10:15:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/?p=32181"},"modified":"2025-06-27T10:15:36","modified_gmt":"2025-06-27T10:15:36","slug":"pfw-auralee-ernest-w-baker-collections-printemps-ete-2026","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/pfw-auralee-ernest-w-baker-collections-printemps-ete-2026\/","title":{"rendered":"Auralee et Ernest W. Baker : deux visions du vestiaire masculin lors du premier jour de la PFW\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Lors de cette premi\u00e8re journ\u00e9e de Fashion Week parisienne, la mode masculine s\u2019est exprim\u00e9e \u00e0 travers deux visions singuli\u00e8res : celle d\u2019Auralee, tout en subtilit\u00e9 japonaise, et celle d\u2019Ernest W. Baker, ancr\u00e9e dans un imaginaire europ\u00e9en d\u2019antan. Deux approches contrast\u00e9es pour repenser le vestiaire masculin contemporain.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Auralee : po\u00e9sie des mati\u00e8res et \u00e9l\u00e9gance d\u00e9sinvolte\u00a0<\/strong>
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Fond\u00e9e par Ryota Iwai<\/strong> en 2015, la marque japonaise Auralee<\/a> c\u00e9l\u00e8bre cette ann\u00e9e son dixi\u00e8me anniversaire avec un retour discret mais marquant \u00e0 Paris, dans l\u2019\u00e9crin de la cour du mus\u00e9e des Archives nationales. \u00c0 cette occasion, elle pr\u00e9sente une collection Printemps\/\u00c9t\u00e9 2026 inspir\u00e9e d\u2019un moment pr\u00e9cis : la mi-saison au Japon<\/strong>, quand l\u2019air se r\u00e9chauffe mais que le vent souffle encore. Ce climat ambivalent se traduit par des silhouettes l\u00e9g\u00e8res, a\u00e9riennes, presque flottantes<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Un des \u00e9l\u00e9ments clefs : les superpositions. Tee-shirts, chemises, vestes et pulls nou\u00e9s se glissent les uns sur les autres<\/strong> avec naturel. Les tons neutres <\/strong>\u2014 beige, marron et gris \u2014 dialoguent avec des teintes plus vives<\/strong> comme le rouge et le vert qui \u00e9voquent les \u00e9closions du printemps. La coupe, elle, reste volontairement rel\u00e2ch\u00e9e, \u00e9vitant tout formalisme. Mais sous cette apparente d\u00e9contraction, Auralee reste fid\u00e8le \u00e0 son exigence textile<\/strong>. Les mati\u00e8res, pr\u00e9cieuses mais jamais tapageuses, racontent un autre rapport au monde : cachemire mongol issu de troupeaux nomades, alpaga du P\u00e9rou, laine de Nouvelle-Z\u00e9lande ou d\u2019\u00c9cosse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En guise de clin d\u2019\u0153il contemporain, la marque d\u00e9voile une nouvelle collaboration avec New Balance<\/strong> autour du mod\u00e8le 204L : une sneaker \u00e0 l\u2019esth\u00e9tique sobre, technique et tout terrain, qui prolonge l\u2019esprit de la marque, dans une qu\u00eate perp\u00e9tuelle d\u2019une certaine \u00e9l\u00e9gance effortless<\/em>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ernest W. Baker : m\u00e9moire et mise en sc\u00e8ne<\/strong>
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Cr\u00e9\u00e9e en 2017 par le duo In\u00eas Amorim<\/strong> et Reid Baker<\/strong>, la marque Ernest W. Baker tire son nom du grand-p\u00e8re de Reid. Une figure tut\u00e9laire qui, bien plus qu\u2019un simple hommage, sert de socle identitaire \u00e0 la marque. Car chez Ernest W. Baker, les r\u00e9f\u00e9rences personnelles sont le point de d\u00e9part d\u2019un univers qui m\u00eale souvenirs bien r\u00e9els et imaginaires en train de s\u2019\u00e9crire.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cette saison, pas de d\u00e9fil\u00e9 mais une pr\u00e9sentation intimiste<\/strong> d\u2019un lookbook de 29 silhouettes, dont l\u2019entr\u00e9e en mati\u00e8re donne le ton : deux looks jumeaux en vinyle, jouant autant sur les genres que les reflets<\/strong>. Le vestiaire convoque des inspirations multiples \u2014 ann\u00e9es 70, silhouettes Chicanos et une certaine id\u00e9e du glamour \u00e0 l\u2019europ\u00e9enne. Pantalons bootcut taille haute, souliers plats \u00e0 boucle, vestes de surv\u00eatement d\u00e9tourn\u00e9es et imprim\u00e9s animaliers et floraux en pagaille.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ce qui frappe, c\u2019est la ma\u00eetrise du crescendo<\/strong> : au fil des looks, les silhouettes gagnent en tension dramatique. Les couleurs s\u2019\u00e9teignent, les mati\u00e8res deviennent plus riches, les volumes s\u2019affinent. Jusqu\u2019\u00e0 l\u2019apparition d\u2019une veste longue, \u00e0 mi-chemin entre la redingote romantique et le trench dystopique \u2014 un final de cin\u00e9ma noir<\/strong>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Deux visions du vestiaire masculin\u00a0<\/strong>
<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Tout oppose \u2014 ou presque \u2014 Auralee et Ernest W. Baker. L\u2019une puise dans les variations subtiles du quotidien japonais, l\u2019autre s\u2019enracine dans une esth\u00e9tique narrative et th\u00e9\u00e2trale emprunt\u00e9e aux films noirs. Et pourtant, quelque chose circule entre ces deux collections : une m\u00eame volont\u00e9 de r\u00e9inventer le costume masculin, de le faire glisser hors de son traditionnel.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chez Auralee, la r\u00e9invention passe par le toucher, la texture et la superposition. Une douceur presque sensorielle<\/strong> inspire des silhouettes l\u00e9g\u00e8res, flottantes, o\u00f9 le tailoring s’efface derri\u00e8re la sensation. Chez Ernest W. Baker, \u00e0 l\u2019inverse, le costume est un socle narratif<\/strong>. On le travestit, on l\u2019habille de vinyle, de satin ou de motifs animaliers, pour en faire un manifeste visuel. D\u2019un c\u00f4t\u00e9, la discr\u00e9tion assum\u00e9e ; de l\u2019autre, une th\u00e9\u00e2tralit\u00e9 flamboyante.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mais les deux marques partagent un go\u00fbt pour les anachronismes : Auralee fait dialoguer la tradition textile et une certaine d\u00e9sinvolture urbaine, tandis que Ernest W. Baker convoque les ann\u00e9es 70, le glamour vintage et les contre-cultures chicanas dans une m\u00eame silhouette. Deux mani\u00e8res de parler du pr\u00e9sent en le regardant de biais<\/strong>. Deux sensibilit\u00e9s qui, ce m\u00eame jour \u00e0 Paris, ont affirm\u00e9 que le vestiaire masculin ne se joue plus sur un seul registre, mais sur toute une gamme de textures, d\u2019identit\u00e9s et de r\u00e9cits.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Article de Julie Boone<\/strong>. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Lors de cette premi\u00e8re journ\u00e9e de Fashion Week parisienne, la mode masculine s\u2019est exprim\u00e9e \u00e0 travers deux visions singuli\u00e8res : celle d\u2019Auralee, tout en subtilit\u00e9 japonaise, et celle d\u2019Ernest W. Baker, ancr\u00e9e dans un imaginaire europ\u00e9en d\u2019antan. Deux approches contrast\u00e9es pour repenser le vestiaire masculin contemporain. Auralee : po\u00e9sie des mati\u00e8res et \u00e9l\u00e9gance d\u00e9sinvolte\u00a0 Fond\u00e9e […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":32188,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4060,122],"tags":[4151,4152,734,4155,1282,1978,4156,4154,4153],"class_list":["post-32181","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brands","category-fashion","tag-auralee","tag-ernest-w-baker","tag-fashion-week","tag-ines-amorim","tag-paris-fashion-week","tag-pfw","tag-reid-baker","tag-ryota-iwai","tag-ss26","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\nAuralee et Ernest W. 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