{"id":32190,"date":"2025-06-28T08:34:53","date_gmt":"2025-06-28T08:34:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/?p=32190"},"modified":"2025-06-28T08:34:55","modified_gmt":"2025-06-28T08:34:55","slug":"pfw-ss26-mode-masculine-poetique-engagee","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/pfw-ss26-mode-masculine-poetique-engagee\/","title":{"rendered":"PFW : 3 marques qui repensent la mode masculine\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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\u00c0 l\u2019occasion de cette Fashion Week parisienne, 3.Paradis, Wales Bonner et Blue Marble red\u00e9finissent, chacun \u00e0 leur mani\u00e8re, ce que peut \u00eatre la mode masculine aujourd\u2019hui. Travers\u00e9es spirituelles, h\u00e9ritages culturels, r\u00e9cits intimes : chez ces trois marques, le v\u00eatement d\u00e9passe le style pour devenir langage, terrain d\u2019exploration identitaire et manifeste po\u00e9tique.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Blue Marble : gravir sa montagne int\u00e9rieure <\/strong>
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Pour sa collection Printemps-\u00c9t\u00e9 2026<\/strong>, Anthony Alvarez<\/strong> convoque ses souvenirs d\u2019enfance dans la r\u00e9gion de Toulon. Un retour aux sources dans un paysage m\u00e9diterran\u00e9en brumeux, o\u00f9 les mod\u00e8les avancent sur un sol jonch\u00e9 de feuilles mortes, comme en pleine randonn\u00e9e sensorielle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

D\u00e8s les premi\u00e8res silhouettes, le d\u00e9cor est plant\u00e9 : la montagne s\u2019imprime en images sur les pantalons<\/strong>, tandis qu\u2019un tee-shirt proclame \u00ab\u202fBeyond<\/strong>\u202f\u00bb, v\u00e9ritable incitation \u00e0 se d\u00e9passer. Une chemise annonce \u00ab\u202fEach path a hike<\/strong>\u202f\u00bb : chaque trajet est une ascension, un effort physique et<\/em> symbolique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Le vestiaire Blue Marble reprend des essentiels outdoor<\/em> : denim oversize d\u00e9clin\u00e9 en plusieurs lavages<\/strong>, imperm\u00e9ables XXL <\/strong>et sacs port\u00e9s sous le bras<\/strong>. Les silhouettes s\u2019accompagnent de chapeaux \u00e9tranges constell\u00e9s de pins<\/strong>, accessoires touristiques d\u00e9tourn\u00e9s qui migrent progressivement des couvre-chefs vers les torses comme une pluie de souvenirs<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Certaines pi\u00e8ces semblent presque crypt\u00e9es, \u00e0 l\u2019image de messages volontairement illisibles brod\u00e9s sur les v\u00eatements. Ce n\u2019est plus la destination qui compte, mais le chemin. <\/strong>La pi\u00e8ce forte<\/strong> ? Une chemise d\u00e9cor\u00e9e d\u2019une guirlande de fleurs<\/strong>, vestige po\u00e9tique du feuillage travers\u00e9 \u2014 ou comment garder une trace visible de l’effort accompli.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

3. Paradis : la marche du r\u00eaveur <\/strong>
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Avec Steps to Nowhere, <\/em>Emeric Tchatchoua<\/strong> propose une v\u00e9ritable travers\u00e9e symbolique du d\u00e9sert. Les pieds dans le sable. <\/strong>Le d\u00e9sert, ici, est multiple : r\u00e9el et fantasm\u00e9, aride et fertile, territoire d\u2019introspection et de mirages. La palette de tons neutres et chauds<\/strong>, ponctu\u00e9e de touches vives, \u00e9pouse ce r\u00e9cit visuel. \u00c0 mesure que les silhouettes avancent, les couleurs s\u2019intensifient \u2013 comme des hallucinations \u2013 pour former des aplats fuchsia et orange. Le bleu indigo des Touaregs<\/strong>, fil conducteur de la collection, \u00e9voque \u00e0 la fois la noblesse du voyage et le Petit Prince<\/em>. Il inspire un couvre-chef hybride, entre ch\u00e8che et casquette, condens\u00e9 des influences nomades et urbaines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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L\u2019illusion est au c\u0153ur du propos<\/strong> : boutonni\u00e8res de travers, pantalons quadruplement ceintur\u00e9s, trenchs \u00e0 double col. Les montres migrent des poignets vers les imprim\u00e9s, jusqu\u2019\u00e0 redevenir des objets \u00e0 part enti\u00e8re, accroch\u00e9es en grappes ou transform\u00e9es en sacs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La derni\u00e8re silhouette, une vision tout en blanc, r\u00e9sonne comme une apparition \u2014 ou un mariage avec l\u2019inconnu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le style 3.Paradis<\/strong> reste fid\u00e8le \u00e0 ses fondamentaux : costumes aux volumes sculpt\u00e9s<\/strong>, oversize ma\u00eetris\u00e9<\/strong>, cabas en cuir tress\u00e9 XXL<\/strong> \u2013 port\u00e9s comme des compagnons de route \u2013 et bien s\u00fbr, les colombes blanches floqu\u00e9es<\/strong>, embl\u00e8mes de paix et d\u2019esp\u00e9rance, signature de la maison.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wales Bonner : 10 ans de tailoring<\/em> engag\u00e9<\/strong>
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Grace<\/strong> Wales Bonner<\/strong> f\u00eate cette saison les dix ans de sa maison \u00e9ponyme avec une collection empreinte d\u2019hommages. Laur\u00e9ate du Prix LVMH<\/strong> et d\u00e9sormais figure centrale de la mode contemporaine, la cr\u00e9atrice britannique d\u00e9file au lyc\u00e9e Henri-IV<\/strong>, lieu de savoir et de transmission, parfait \u00e9crin pour son vestiaire \u00e9rudit.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

La collection Printemps-\u00c9t\u00e9 2026, intitul\u00e9e \u00ab Jewel \u00bb<\/strong>, r\u00e9pond au th\u00e8me du Met Gala<\/em> \u00ab Superfine: Tailoring Black Style<\/em> \u00bb. Une correspondance transatlantique toute trouv\u00e9e pour la cr\u00e9atrice britannique, d\u2019origine jama\u00efcaine, qui faisait d\u2019ailleurs partie du comit\u00e9 de l\u2019\u00e9v\u00e9nement. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Le style Wales Bonner<\/strong> continue de m\u00ealer les codes du dandysme<\/strong>, les silhouettes preppy<\/em><\/strong> et une \u00e9l\u00e9gance nourrie par diff\u00e9rents h\u00e9ritages diasporiques. Mais cette saison, la ligne semble plus concentr\u00e9e encore, plus intimiste. La cr\u00e9atrice parle m\u00eame de \u00ab soulful clothing \u00bb<\/strong>, un v\u00eatement travers\u00e9 par l\u2019\u00e2me.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Les shorts<\/strong> \u2013 pi\u00e8ce centrale de la collection \u2013 oscillent entre d\u00e9contraction estivale et rigueur du tailoring. Le vestiaire glisse ainsi d\u2019un workwear raffin\u00e9<\/strong> \u00e0 des silhouettes de soir\u00e9e, sans jamais rompre son fil. Les ann\u00e9es 60 et 70<\/strong> sont convoqu\u00e9es, non pour rejouer une \u00e9poque, mais pour en extraire les symboles : affirmation, beaut\u00e9 noire, lib\u00e9ration des corps et des genres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chez 3.Paradis, Wales Bonner et Blue Marble, la mode masculine devient plus qu\u2019un exercice de style : elle \u00e9voque des r\u00e9cits personnels comme des m\u00e9moires collectives. Ces trois collections dessinent des trajectoires singuli\u00e8res loin des dogmes virils ou des silhouettes standardis\u00e9es. Un langage de l\u2019intime<\/strong> qui affirme que le v\u00eatement masculin peut, lui aussi, \u00eatre le lieu d\u2019une qu\u00eate \u2014 de soi, des autres, du monde.<\/strong>
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Article de Julie Boone<\/strong>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00c0 l\u2019occasion de cette Fashion Week parisienne, 3.Paradis, Wales Bonner et Blue Marble red\u00e9finissent, chacun \u00e0 leur mani\u00e8re, ce que peut \u00eatre la mode masculine aujourd\u2019hui. Travers\u00e9es spirituelles, h\u00e9ritages culturels, r\u00e9cits intimes : chez ces trois marques, le v\u00eatement d\u00e9passe le style pour devenir langage, terrain d\u2019exploration identitaire et manifeste po\u00e9tique. Blue Marble : gravir […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":32192,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4060,122],"tags":[4157,101,4159,4158,4160,734,2680,1282,1978,2513,4161],"class_list":["post-32190","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brands","category-fashion","tag-3-paradis","tag-adidas","tag-anthony-alvarez","tag-blue-marble","tag-emeric-tchatchoua","tag-fashion-week","tag-grace-wales-bonner","tag-paris-fashion-week","tag-pfw","tag-wales-bonner","tag-y-3","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\nPFW : 3 marques qui repensent la mode masculine\u00a0 - Sneaker Spirit<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"\u00c0 la Fashion Week de Paris, 3.Paradis, Wales Bonner et Blue Marble offrent une nouvelle vision du vestiaire masculin.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/pfw-ss26-mode-masculine-poetique-engagee\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"PFW : 3 marques qui repensent la mode masculine\u00a0 - Sneaker Spirit\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"\u00c0 la Fashion Week de Paris, 3.Paradis, Wales Bonner et Blue Marble offrent une nouvelle vision du vestiaire masculin.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/pfw-ss26-mode-masculine-poetique-engagee\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Sneaker Spirit\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2025-06-28T08:34:53+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2025-06-28T08:34:55+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/06\/Cover-PFW-mode-masculine-22-e1751099685158.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1080\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"662\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"mina\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"\u00c9crit par\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"mina\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Dur\u00e9e de lecture estim\u00e9e\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"6 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"NewsArticle\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\\\/fr\\\/pfw-ss26-mode-masculine-poetique-engagee\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\\\/fr\\\/pfw-ss26-mode-masculine-poetique-engagee\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"mina\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\\\/fr\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/30a8cea81093c00e2c875c9b886d7514\"},\"headline\":\"PFW : 3 marques qui repensent la mode masculine\u00a0\",\"datePublished\":\"2025-06-28T08:34:53+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2025-06-28T08:34:55+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\\\/fr\\\/pfw-ss26-mode-masculine-poetique-engagee\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":819,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\\\/fr\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\\\/fr\\\/pfw-ss26-mode-masculine-poetique-engagee\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\\\/fr\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/sites\\\/3\\\/2025\\\/06\\\/Cover-PFW-mode-masculine-22-e1751099685158.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"3. 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