{"id":32205,"date":"2025-06-30T15:24:30","date_gmt":"2025-06-30T15:24:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/?p=32205"},"modified":"2025-06-30T15:24:33","modified_gmt":"2025-06-30T15:24:33","slug":"dior-jonathan-anderson-premiere-collection-homme","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/dior-jonathan-anderson-premiere-collection-homme\/","title":{"rendered":"Premi\u00e8re le\u00e7on Dior par Jonathan Anderson\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Depuis l\u2019annonce de sa nomination \u00e0 la direction artistique de Dior Femme, Jonathan Anderson ne cesse de faire monter la tension. D\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00e0 la t\u00eate de la ligne masculine, il devient le premier designer depuis Christian Dior \u00e0 diriger les deux lignes en simultan\u00e9. Un signal fort envoy\u00e9 par la maison, qui entend \u00e9crire un nouveau chapitre de son histoire avec une figure visionnaire \u00e0 la barre. Et qui d\u2019autre que Jonathan Anderson pour s\u2019atteler \u00e0 la t\u00e2che ?<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Jonathan Anderson et l\u2019art du teasing<\/em> <\/strong>
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En amont du show<\/em>, le cr\u00e9ateur s\u2019amuse \u00e0 brouiller les pistes. Les invitations prennent la forme d\u2019une assiette de porcelaine contenant trois \u0153ufs en c\u00e9ramique, aussit\u00f4t \u00e9rig\u00e9e en objet collector. Une multitude d\u2019indices sont ensuite diss\u00e9min\u00e9s sur les r\u00e9seaux : le portrait de Jean-Michel Basquiat<\/strong> par Andy Warhol<\/strong>, celui de Lee Radziwill,<\/strong> plusieurs r\u00e9interpr\u00e9tations du sac Book Tote en version litt\u00e9raire, ainsi que le lancement d\u2019une nouvelle campagne avec Kylian Mbapp\u00e9<\/strong>, ambassadeur de la marque. Autant de fragments visuels comme autant de balises pos\u00e9es \u00e0 travers les d\u00e9cennies<\/strong>. Le message est clair : Jonathan Anderson a plong\u00e9 dans les archives de la maison fond\u00e9e en 1946, pr\u00eat \u00e0 en r\u00e9activer les mythes<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Une premi\u00e8re collection acclam\u00e9e <\/strong>
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C\u2019est dans le d\u00e9cor solennel de l\u2019H\u00f4tel national des Invalides que Jonathan Anderson pr\u00e9sentait sa premi\u00e8re collection masculine pour Dior. Un \u00e9crin charg\u00e9 d\u2019histoire, pour une proposition qui, elle aussi, jongle entre pass\u00e9 et pr\u00e9sent. Au programme : 67 silhouettes<\/strong> pens\u00e9es comme autant de fragments d\u2019un portrait en construction.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

D\u00e8s le premier look, le ton est donn\u00e9 : la veste Bar<\/strong>, pi\u00e8ce embl\u00e9matique du vestiaire f\u00e9minin et composante du mythique New Look, est ici r\u00e9interpr\u00e9t\u00e9e \u00e0 la mani\u00e8re Anderson. Transpos\u00e9e dans une version masculine, elle est associ\u00e9e \u00e0 des shorts larges et d\u00e9structur\u00e9s<\/strong>, dans une approche du volume que l\u2019on a d\u00e9j\u00e0 pu voir chez Loewe<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Look 20<\/strong> : un jean brut \u00e0 la coupe baggy, travers\u00e9 d\u2019une couture en biais sur la jambe, joue lui aussi sur les proportions. Il est associ\u00e9 \u00e0 un gilet de costume cropped<\/strong>, pour une silhouette \u00e0 la fois habill\u00e9e et d\u00e9contract\u00e9e. Le look suivant reprend la m\u00eame composition, cette fois dans une palette plus claire, comme un reflet invers\u00e9<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La collection fourmille de d\u00e9tails subtils<\/strong> : n\u0153uds papillons port\u00e9s \u00e0 m\u00eame la peau<\/strong>, gilets d\u00e9licats<\/strong>, cravates nou\u00e9es \u00e0 l\u2019envers<\/strong>\u2026 Anderson esquisse les contours d\u2019un nouvel homme Dior<\/strong>, l\u00e0 o\u00f9 on ne l\u2019attend pas. Il n\u2019est pas un h\u00e9ros classique mais plut\u00f4t un anti-h\u00e9ros litt\u00e9raire<\/strong>, un homme qui chine, qui lit, qui r\u00eave. Un dandy fatigu\u00e9 ou un jeune homme d\u2019un autre si\u00e8cle \u2014 c\u2019est selon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Le drama<\/strong> s\u2019invite aussi par touches. Une cape semblable \u00e0 un pull XXL, \u00e9voque une silhouette presque vampirique. Ailleurs, l\u2019allure devient plus hybride : une combinaison blanche \u00e0 boutons<\/strong>, presque une grenouill\u00e8re pour adulte, est port\u00e9e avec des sandales de p\u00eacheurs en daim<\/strong> \u2014 une version plus luxueuse des fameuses \u00ab m\u00e9duses \u00bb. Plus loin, une veste d\u2019officier<\/strong> dialogue avec des sneakers d\u2019inspiration skate<\/strong>. L\u2019homme Dior selon Anderson n\u2019a ni \u00e2ge fixe ni \u00e9poque assign\u00e9e<\/strong> : il voyage entre les genres, les souvenirs et les histoires.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Un d\u00e9fil\u00e9 regard\u00e9 jusque dans les bars <\/strong>
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Tandis que certains invit\u00e9s tri\u00e9s sur le volet re\u00e7oivent leur assiette en porcelaine, d\u2019autres cr\u00e9ent leurs propres moments. \u00c0 l\u2019initiative du cr\u00e9ateur de contenu mode @Lyas \u2014 visiblement snob\u00e9 cette saison apr\u00e8s avoir \u00e9t\u00e9 invit\u00e9 sous l\u2019\u00e8re Maria Grazia Chiuri<\/strong> \u2014 une watch party<\/em> s\u2019organise dans un bar du 10e arrondissement. Une initiative de derni\u00e8re minute qui r\u00e9unit passionn\u00e9\u00b7es et curieux\u00b7ses pour suivre le d\u00e9fil\u00e9 en direct, dans une ambiance d\u00e9contract\u00e9e mais tout aussi investie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ce moment collectif, improvis\u00e9 mais f\u00e9d\u00e9rateur, r\u00e9sume \u00e0 lui seul ce que Jonathan Anderson insuffle aujourd\u2019hui \u00e0 Dior <\/strong>: un d\u00e9sir de mode qui d\u00e9passe les cercles ferm\u00e9s, une excitation partag\u00e9e entre initi\u00e9\u00b7es et amateurs. Le prodige nord-irlandais sait capter l\u2019air du temps autant que les r\u00e9f\u00e9rences oubli\u00e9es, manier l\u2019h\u00e9ritage comme le pr\u00e9sent. Mais au-del\u00e0 de faire dialoguer le pass\u00e9 de la maison avec l\u2019\u00e9poque, Anderson y inscrit aussi sa propre histoire, son langage<\/strong>. Le tout avec une aisance qui confirme, s\u2019il le fallait encore, que la nouvelle \u00e8re Dior est d\u00e9j\u00e0 en marche \u2014 et qu\u2019elle porte autant la signature de son cr\u00e9ateur que celle de son fondateur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Article de Julie Boone<\/strong>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Depuis l\u2019annonce de sa nomination \u00e0 la direction artistique de Dior Femme, Jonathan Anderson ne cesse de faire monter la tension. D\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00e0 la t\u00eate de la ligne masculine, il devient le premier designer depuis Christian Dior \u00e0 diriger les deux lignes en simultan\u00e9. Un signal fort envoy\u00e9 par la maison, qui entend \u00e9crire un […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":32215,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4060,122],"tags":[4163,501,734,2396,2113,3424,1978],"class_list":["post-32205","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brands","category-fashion","tag-andy-warhol","tag-dior","tag-fashion-week","tag-kylian-mbappe","tag-loewe","tag-maria-grazia-chiuri","tag-pfw","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\nPremi\u00e8re le\u00e7on Dior par Jonathan Anderson\u00a0 - Sneaker Spirit<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Jonathan Anderson signe sa premi\u00e8re collection Dior Homme. 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