{"id":32303,"date":"2025-07-11T09:30:14","date_gmt":"2025-07-11T09:30:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/?p=32303"},"modified":"2025-07-11T09:31:47","modified_gmt":"2025-07-11T09:31:47","slug":"mode-balenciaga-demna-depart-defile-couture","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/mode-balenciaga-demna-depart-defile-couture\/","title":{"rendered":"Les adieux de Demna \u00e0 Balenciaga\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Apr\u00e8s des ann\u00e9es marqu\u00e9es par la provocation et l\u2019absurde, Demna quitte Balenciaga. Son dernier d\u00e9fil\u00e9 couture, pr\u00e9sent\u00e9 dans les salons historiques de l\u2019avenue George V, sonne comme un chant du cygne. Retour sur la fin d\u2019une \u00e8re qui co\u00efncide avec un passage de t\u00e9moin strat\u00e9gique.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Une galerie de silhouettes hollywoodiennes\u00a0<\/strong>
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Pour sa derni\u00e8re collection couture, Demna a repris l\u2019un de ses exercices favoris : dresser un th\u00e9\u00e2tre de personnages<\/strong>. Dans l\u2019intimit\u00e9 des salons historiques de la maison<\/strong>, il convoque tout un imaginaire cin\u00e9matographique<\/strong> : stars hollywoodiennes, hommes d\u2019affaires anonymes, agents de s\u00e9curit\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Les silhouettes sont, comme toujours, hypertrophi\u00e9es<\/strong> : des costumes deux fois trop grands, aux \u00e9paules XXL rembourr\u00e9es<\/strong>, en passant par des sacs en cuir rigide \u00e0 armature<\/strong>, pens\u00e9s pour r\u00e9sister aux temp\u00eates d\u2019une vie. Le vestiaire se construit autour d\u2019une multitude de cols \u2014 tous extravagants \u2014 jusqu\u2019\u00e0 l\u2019apoth\u00e9ose finale : un col si haut qu\u2019il forme une capuche, engloutissant le visage dans un cocon de tissu \u2014 dramatique. Les robes noires, quant \u00e0 elles, impressionnent par leur ampleur, en \u00e9cho direct \u00e0 l\u2019h\u00e9ritage architectural de Crist\u00f3bal Balenciaga<\/strong>. Aux antipodes, des robes de gala aux teintes acidul\u00e9es \u2014 rose poudr\u00e9, jaune poussin, bleu azur \u2014 d\u00e9filent comme autant de poup\u00e9es de porcelaine sous les projecteurs. L\u2019humour n\u2019est jamais loin : un ensemble en toile cir\u00e9e fleurie<\/strong>, assorti d\u2019un sac du m\u00eame motif, rend hommage aux nappes de la grand-m\u00e8re de Demna, rappelant que m\u00eame dans la haute couture, le kitsch peut devenir sublime.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Un g\u00e9n\u00e9rique de fin touchant<\/strong>
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En fond sonore, une liste de pr\u00e9noms, ceux des collaborateurs de Demna<\/strong> puis le titre No Ordinary Love<\/em> de Sade<\/strong> pour clore un chapitre qui aura dur\u00e9 10 ans. Si les portes de la maison fran\u00e7aise se ferment doucement derri\u00e8re Demna, c\u2019est pour mieux lui d\u00e9rouler le tapis rouge d\u2019une autre maison prestigieuse, italienne cette fois : Gucci<\/strong>. Le pilier de Kering est en grande difficult\u00e9 et le groupe compte sur l\u2019irr\u00e9v\u00e9rence du G\u00e9orgien pour la remettre \u00e0 flot. Pari risqu\u00e9, mais pari tenu. \u00c0 sa place, c\u2019est Pierpaolo Piccioli<\/strong> qui prendra les reines de Balenciaga d\u00e8s la rentr\u00e9e apr\u00e8s un succ\u00e8s critique et commercial chez Valentino<\/strong>. Mais avant ce nouveau chapitre, place au dernier acte de Demna.<\/strong>
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Un parterre d\u2019invit\u00e9s prestigieux<\/strong>
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Pour ce dernier tour de piste, le casting a \u00e9t\u00e9 soign\u00e9 \u00e0 la hauteur de l’\u00e9v\u00e9nement. Kim Kardashian <\/strong>incarne une Elizabeth Taylor<\/strong> fantasm\u00e9e : boucles d\u2019oreilles ayant appartenu \u00e0 l\u2019actrice, robe nude<\/em> seconde peau, vison jet\u00e9 sur les \u00e9paules. \u00c0 ses c\u00f4t\u00e9s : Naomi Campbell<\/strong>, Isabelle Huppert<\/strong>, Michelle Yeoh<\/strong>, Dolly Parton<\/strong>. Toutes incarnent des arch\u00e9types parfaitement calibr\u00e9s<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Au premier rang, la liste est tout aussi spectaculaire : Aya Nakamura<\/strong> assise entre Katy Perry<\/strong> et Cardi B.<\/strong> Non loin, Nicole Kidman<\/strong>, ou encore Lorde<\/strong> sont elles aussi au rendez-vous. Anna Wintour<\/strong>, impassible derri\u00e8re ses lunettes noires, assiste au spectacle avec la gravit\u00e9 des grands jours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le salut final est \u00e0 l\u2019image de la collection. Demna traverse les pi\u00e8ces en enfilade d\u2019un pas rythm\u00e9 en distribuant des baisers aux invit\u00e9s. La seule accolade ? Pour Fran\u00e7ois-Henri Pinault<\/strong>, PDG de Kering, avec lequel il s\u2019appr\u00eate \u00e0 \u00e9crire une nouvelle page d\u2019histoire chez Gucci<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Balenciaga apr\u00e8s la temp\u00eate Demna\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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En dix ans, Demna aura bouscul\u00e9 les conventions de la couture, impos\u00e9 un vocabulaire brutal, ironique, parfois inconfortable, mais profond\u00e9ment en phase avec son \u00e9poque<\/strong>. Entre mode et performance, sa vision de Balenciaga aura souvent fait parler. On retiendra ses silhouettes post-apocalyptiques, ses castings hors-norme, sa capacit\u00e9 \u00e0 injecter du chaos dans l\u2019ordre \u00e9tabli.<\/strong> Mais aussi, et surtout, sa facult\u00e9 \u00e0 faire exister la couture dans le pr\u00e9sent. Avec ce dernier d\u00e9fil\u00e9, le cr\u00e9ateur g\u00e9orgien referme une parenth\u00e8se qui aura red\u00e9fini les contours du \u00ab\u00a0cool\u00a0\u00bb dans la mode contemporaine. Son d\u00e9part ne marque pas seulement la fin d\u2019un cycle chez Balenciaga : il acte la fin d\u2019un moment culturel, social o\u00f9 la provocation faisait office de moteur cr\u00e9atif<\/strong>. Avec Piccioli, la couture pourrait d\u00e9laisser le cri pour l\u2019\u00e9l\u00e9gance du murmure. Mais \u00e0 la t\u00eate de Balenciaga, m\u00eame le silence fera du bruit.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Article de Julie Boone<\/strong>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Apr\u00e8s des ann\u00e9es marqu\u00e9es par la provocation et l\u2019absurde, Demna quitte Balenciaga. Son dernier d\u00e9fil\u00e9 couture, pr\u00e9sent\u00e9 dans les salons historiques de l\u2019avenue George V, sonne comme un chant du cygne. Retour sur la fin d\u2019une \u00e8re qui co\u00efncide avec un passage de t\u00e9moin strat\u00e9gique. Une galerie de silhouettes hollywoodiennes\u00a0 Pour sa derni\u00e8re collection couture, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":32309,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4060,122],"tags":[661,4143,4188,788,230,4190,3015],"class_list":["post-32303","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brands","category-fashion","tag-balenciaga","tag-demna","tag-dolly-parton","tag-gucci","tag-kim-kardashian","tag-lorde","tag-naomi-campbell","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\nLes adieux de Demna \u00e0 Balenciaga\u00a0 - Sneaker Spirit<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Demna quitte Balenciaga apr\u00e8s 10 ans de r\u00e8gne. 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