{"id":32457,"date":"2025-07-30T09:13:50","date_gmt":"2025-07-30T09:13:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/?p=32457"},"modified":"2025-07-30T09:13:54","modified_gmt":"2025-07-30T09:13:54","slug":"mode-camouflage-reappropriation-histoire-bape-2025","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/mode-camouflage-reappropriation-histoire-bape-2025\/","title":{"rendered":"Le camouflage, arme de r\u00e9appropriation massive\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Longtemps r\u00e9serv\u00e9 aux uniformes militaires, l\u2019imprim\u00e9 camouflage a travers\u00e9 les \u00e9poques, des sous-cultures aux podiums de mode. D\u00e9tourn\u00e9 par les militants pacifistes, sacralis\u00e9 par le streetwear, il ne cesse d\u2019\u00eatre r\u00e9interpr\u00e9t\u00e9. Alors que des marques comme BAPE ou Louis Vuitton lui offrent une nouvelle vie en 2025, retour sur un motif paradoxal n\u00e9 pour se fondre mais d\u00e9sormais impossible \u00e0 ignorer.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Petite histoire d\u2019un motif charg\u00e9\u00a0<\/strong>
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Le camouflage tel qu\u2019on le conna\u00eet aujourd\u2019hui trouve ses origines durant la Premi\u00e8re Guerre mondiale. C\u2019est le peintre fran\u00e7ais Louis Guingot qui con\u00e7oit les premiers prototypes pour l\u2019arm\u00e9e fran\u00e7aise. \u00c0 l\u2019\u00e9poque, son but est clair : rendre les soldats invisibles, les fondre dans leur environnement<\/strong>. Une r\u00e9volution<\/strong>, puisque jusqu\u2019alors, les uniformes militaires \u00e9taient con\u00e7us pour \u00eatre voyants \u2014 afin de mieux distinguer les camps sur le champ de bataille.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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C\u2019est v\u00e9ritablement pendant la Seconde Guerre mondiale que l\u2019imprim\u00e9 se g\u00e9n\u00e9ralise, ses teintes \u00e9voluant en fonction des saisons et des terrains. En hiver, ce sont des nuances claires qui pr\u00e9dominent ; en for\u00eat, des verts et des bruns. D\u2019abord purement utilitaire, ce motif devient bient\u00f4t un symbole \u2014 celui de l\u2019arm\u00e9e. Dans les ann\u00e9es 60, en pleine guerre du Vietnam, le camouflage change de camp<\/strong>. Il est d\u00e9tourn\u00e9 par les militants pacifistes. Ce retournement de sens \u2014 de l\u2019uniforme de guerre \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9tendard de paix<\/strong> \u2014 initie un glissement culturel qui ne cessera de s\u2019intensifier.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dans les ann\u00e9es 90 et 2000, le camouflage explose dans la pop culture<\/strong>. Sur les podiums \u2014 notamment chez Christian Dior par John Galliano<\/strong> (printemps-\u00e9t\u00e9 2001) \u2014 mais aussi dans les clips musicaux, de I\u2019m a Survivor<\/em> des Destiny\u2019s Child<\/strong> \u00e0 l\u2019esth\u00e9tique Y2K<\/em> de Paris Hilton<\/strong>, qui le mixe volontiers \u00e0 du rose Barbie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

L\u2019imprim\u00e9 camo<\/em> selon Bape\u00a0<\/strong>
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Impossible d\u2019\u00e9voquer le camouflage sans mentionner A BATHING APE\u00ae<\/strong>, la marque japonaise fond\u00e9e par Nigo<\/strong> en 1993 \u2014 aujourd\u2019hui directeur artistique de Kenzo<\/strong> et figure majeure du streetwear<\/em>. D\u00e8s 1996, BAPE introduit son tout premier motif camouflage. Un imprim\u00e9 imm\u00e9diatement reconnaissable<\/strong>, devenu l\u2019une de ses signatures visuelles les plus fortes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Avec son esth\u00e9tique presque psych\u00e9d\u00e9lique, le camouflage BAPE s\u2019impose comme une r\u00e9invention du genre : plus graphique que militaire<\/strong>. Il incarne une vision hybride, \u00e0 mi-chemin entre la culture japonaise, le hip-hop am\u00e9ricain et l\u2019imaginaire <\/strong>Y2K<\/em><\/strong>.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dans sa collection automne-hiver 2025<\/strong> intitul\u00e9e Connect with People<\/em>, la marque continue de faire \u00e9voluer cette grammaire visuelle. Dans un monde fractur\u00e9 par les conflits, BAPE revendique le v\u00eatement comme vecteur d\u2019expression et de lien humain<\/strong>. Puisant dans l\u2019\u00e9nergie des ann\u00e9es 2000, la collection fusionne couleurs vives, influences sportswear<\/em> (snowboard, hockey, football am\u00e9ricain) et graffiti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Il y a un certain paradoxe \u00e0 b\u00e2tir une collection sur le th\u00e8me de la reconnexion humaine en s\u2019appuyant sur un motif n\u00e9 pour dissimuler, se prot\u00e9ger, voire s\u2019isoler. Ce contraste entre message et esth\u00e9tique souligne justement la richesse du camouflage<\/strong> : un imprim\u00e9 charg\u00e9 de contradictions, travers\u00e9 d\u2019histoires multiples et constamment r\u00e9appropri\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Parmi les pi\u00e8ces phares de la collection : des vestes militaires aux d\u00e9coupes laser 3D en forme de BAPE STA\u2122<\/strong>, des pantalons techniques, et le grand retour du l\u00e9gendaire Shark Full Zip Hoodie<\/strong>, r\u00e9interpr\u00e9t\u00e9 en Tree Edge Camo dans une palette de tons terre. \u00c0 noter \u00e9galement l\u2019introduction du Cloud Camo<\/strong>, nouveau motif r\u00e9alis\u00e9 en denim teint et enrichi de broderies Sashiko \u2014 une technique artisanale japonaise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le camouflage aujourd\u2019hui : une neutralit\u00e9 trompeuse\u00a0<\/strong>
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Loin de ses racines exclusivement militaires ou streetwear<\/em>, le camouflage se glisse d\u00e9sormais partout. On l\u2019a vu sur les podiums automne-hiver 2025 de Louis Vuitton<\/strong>, mais aussi chez Blue Marble<\/strong>, o\u00f9 il s\u2019affranchit des codes classiques guerriers. Sur les r\u00e9seaux sociaux, le camo<\/em> est l\u2019imprim\u00e9 phare des it girls<\/em> qui l\u2019utilisent par touche, sur un sac Diane V<\/strong>. comme la chanteuse M\u00e9lissa Bon<\/strong>, sur un tee-shirt comme Paloma Elsesser<\/strong> ou en short cargo comme la styliste Sierra Rena<\/strong>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ce retour en force s\u2019inscrit aussi dans une tendance plus large : celle du revival des surplus militaires<\/strong>, qui remet au go\u00fbt du jour tout un pan de ce vestiaire \u2014 vestes M65, treillis ou casquettes \u2014 avec le camouflage comme chef de file.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Omnipr\u00e9sent, parfois \u00e0 peine remarqu\u00e9, l\u2019imprim\u00e9 camouflage fait aujourd\u2019hui partie du langage visuel de la mode. Il est un outil d\u2019expression parmi d\u2019autres \u2014 peut-\u00eatre m\u00eame plus politique que jamais.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Article de Julie Boone<\/strong>. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Longtemps r\u00e9serv\u00e9 aux uniformes militaires, l\u2019imprim\u00e9 camouflage a travers\u00e9 les \u00e9poques, des sous-cultures aux podiums de mode. D\u00e9tourn\u00e9 par les militants pacifistes, sacralis\u00e9 par le streetwear, il ne cesse d\u2019\u00eatre r\u00e9interpr\u00e9t\u00e9. Alors que des marques comme BAPE ou Louis Vuitton lui offrent une nouvelle vie en 2025, retour sur un motif paradoxal n\u00e9 pour se […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":32464,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4059,122,123],"tags":[4255,4158,4256,4254,4258,1638,4257,30],"class_list":["post-32457","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-culture","category-fashion","category-lifestyle","tag-bape-sta","tag-blue-marble","tag-diane-v","tag-imprime-camouflage","tag-melissa-bon","tag-nigo","tag-paloma-elsessernsierra-rena","tag-streetwear","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\nLe camouflage, arme de r\u00e9appropriation massive\u00a0 - Sneaker Spirit<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"De l\u2019arm\u00e9e aux d\u00e9fil\u00e9s, le camouflage s\u2019impose comme un imprim\u00e9 culte. 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