{"id":32594,"date":"2025-08-22T09:08:29","date_gmt":"2025-08-22T09:08:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/?p=32594"},"modified":"2025-08-22T09:08:31","modified_gmt":"2025-08-22T09:08:31","slug":"defile-pin-up-john-galliano-1995","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/defile-pin-up-john-galliano-1995\/","title":{"rendered":"Il y a trente ans\u2026 le d\u00e9fil\u00e9 \u00ab\u00a0Pin-Up\u00a0\u00bb de John Galliano\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Printemps\/\u00c9t\u00e9 1995, Paris. Un d\u00e9fil\u00e9 d\u00e9bute avec deux heures de retard. Madonna quitte la salle \u2014 agac\u00e9e \u2014 mais finira par porter l\u2019une des pi\u00e8ces phares dans son clip Take a Bow. C\u2019est l\u2019un des moments les plus marquants de la carri\u00e8re de John Galliano. Une collection inspir\u00e9e de l\u2019imaginaire pin-up, revisit\u00e9e avec la rigueur du tailoring anglais. Une r\u00e9interpr\u00e9tation sexy et pr\u00e9cise, fantaisiste mais sans caricature, qui confirme Galliano comme un prodige. Trente ans plus tard, ce show reste une r\u00e9f\u00e9rence absolue dans l\u2019histoire de la mode contemporaine.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

John Galliano fait ses d\u00e9buts officiels en 1984, lors de sa sortie de la prestigieuse Central Saint Martins<\/strong>, \u00e0 Londres. \u00c0 l\u2019\u00e9poque, son talent est indiscutable, mais les moyens lui manquent<\/strong>. Faute de financement, il saute m\u00eame une saison (l\u2019Automne\/Hiver) peu avant le d\u00e9fil\u00e9 de 1995. Pourtant, deux figures majeures de l\u2019industrie vont lui offrir leur soutien ind\u00e9fectible : Anna Wintour<\/strong> et Andr\u00e9 Leon Talley<\/strong>, alors piliers de Vogue US<\/em>. Ils croient en son potentiel et l\u2019aident \u00e0 rester dans la course\u2026\u00a0\u00a0
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Un d\u00e9fil\u00e9 embl\u00e9matique\u00a0<\/strong>
<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Pr\u00e9sent\u00e9e lors de la saison Printemps\/\u00c9t\u00e9 1995 \u00e0 Paris<\/strong>, la collection surnomm\u00e9e \u00ab Pin-Up \u00bb s\u2019ouvre dans un climat chaotique. Le d\u00e9fil\u00e9 a deux heures de retard, les invit\u00e9s s\u2019impatientent, Madonna<\/strong> quitte la salle \u2014 mais l\u2019impact sera tel qu\u2019elle reprendra l\u2019un des ensembles du show<\/em> pour le clip de Take a Bow<\/em>. Une preuve que malgr\u00e9 les circonstances, la vision cr\u00e9ative de Gallinao a touch\u00e9 juste.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dans une salle pleine \u00e0 craquer, une Cadillac des ann\u00e9es 1950 tr\u00f4ne au centre du podium<\/strong>. \u00c0 bord, deux hommes dont le seul r\u00f4le est d\u2019\u00eatre abord\u00e9s par les mannequins<\/strong> qui les fr\u00f4lent, leur tournent autour, incarnant avec ironie le regard masculin<\/strong> que la collection vient pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment questionner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Galliano s\u2019inspire de la figure de la pin-up<\/strong>, en perte de vitesse depuis les ann\u00e9es 1970. \u00c0 rebours des lectures trop litt\u00e9rales, il revisite ce mythe f\u00e9minin<\/strong> avec subtilit\u00e9. Il m\u00e9lange la sensualit\u00e9 assum\u00e9e de l\u2019ic\u00f4ne am\u00e9ricaine \u00e0 la rigueur du tailoring<\/em> britannique. Ce n\u2019est plus une pin-up qui se donne \u00e0 voir, mais une femme qui ma\u00eetrise avant tout son image : silhouette sablier, taille marqu\u00e9e, \u00e9paules renforc\u00e9es<\/strong>, robes longues et fluides\u2026 Le v\u00eatement devient un v\u00e9ritable outil de narration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Certaines pi\u00e8ces jouent m\u00eame la carte du volume spectaculaire, comme ces robes \u00ab meringue \u00bb<\/strong> dont le tutu effleure les premiers rangs. Parmi les mannequins qui d\u00e9filent, une certaine Linda Evangelista<\/strong>, qui d\u00e9file aux c\u00f4t\u00e9s de Kate Moss<\/strong> ou Naomi Campbell<\/strong>. La top tombera amoureuse de la robe jaune citron<\/strong>, au point de persuader Galliano de la lui offrir. Des ann\u00e9es plus tard, elle en fera don au Met Museum\u2019s Costume Institute<\/strong>, scellant son statut d\u2019objet iconique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Galliano, l\u2019homme que tout le monde s\u2019arrache\u00a0<\/strong>
<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

La collection dans son ensemble confirme que le cr\u00e9ateur n\u2019est pas seulement un conteur de mode : il est un tailleur visionnaire. Au-del\u00e0 de la silhouette fantasque, ce d\u00e9fil\u00e9 assoit la ma\u00eetrise technique de Galliano. Son tailleur gris<\/strong>, port\u00e9 par Yasmeen Ghauri<\/strong>, avec veste bol\u00e9ro et jupe taille haute, est aujourd\u2019hui une pi\u00e8ce de collection<\/strong> : il se revend \u00e0 plus de 6000 euros<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cette d\u00e9monstration de savoir-faire s\u00e9duit LVMH<\/strong>, qui le nomme \u00e0 la t\u00eate de la direction artistique de Givenchy<\/strong> \u2014 une premi\u00e8re pour un cr\u00e9ateur britannique \u00e0 la t\u00eate d\u2019une maison fran\u00e7aise. Mais Galliano ne s\u2019arr\u00eate pas l\u00e0 : \u00e0 peine un an plus tard, il est nomm\u00e9 chez Dior<\/strong>, o\u00f9 il imprimera son style flamboyant pendant plus d\u2019une d\u00e9cennie. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le d\u00e9fil\u00e9 \u00ab Pin-Up \u00bb de 1995 n\u2019est pas seulement une archive visuelle : c\u2019est un point de bascule. Celui o\u00f9 Galliano passe de cr\u00e9ateur prometteur \u00e0 g\u00e9nie confirm\u00e9<\/strong>. Celui o\u00f9 l\u2019on comprend que la mode peut r\u00e9concilier l\u2019extravagance et la rigueur, le fantasme et la coupe. Trente ans plus tard, ce d\u00e9fil\u00e9 conserve sa force d\u2019\u00e9vocation. Galliano y pose les bases d\u2019une f\u00e9minit\u00e9 mouvante, dramatique et libre<\/strong>. Un manifeste de mode, mais surtout une archive vivante. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Article de Julie Boone<\/strong>. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Printemps\/\u00c9t\u00e9 1995, Paris. Un d\u00e9fil\u00e9 d\u00e9bute avec deux heures de retard. Madonna quitte la salle \u2014 agac\u00e9e \u2014 mais finira par porter l\u2019une des pi\u00e8ces phares dans son clip Take a Bow. C\u2019est l\u2019un des moments les plus marquants de la carri\u00e8re de John Galliano. Une collection inspir\u00e9e de l\u2019imaginaire pin-up, revisit\u00e9e avec la rigueur […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":32604,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4060,4059,122],"tags":[4309,3392,501,1558,3033,309,4310,3015,4308],"class_list":["post-32594","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brands","category-culture","category-fashion","tag-andre-leon-talley","tag-anna-wintour","tag-dior","tag-fashion-week-paris","tag-john-galliano","tag-kate-moss","tag-madonna","tag-naomi-campbell","tag-pin-up","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\nIl y a trente ans\u2026 le d\u00e9fil\u00e9 \u00ab\u00a0Pin-Up\u00a0\u00bb de John Galliano\u00a0 - Sneaker Spirit<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Il y a 30 ans, Galliano pr\u00e9sentait sa mythique collection \u00ab Pin-Up \u00bb \u00e0 Paris. 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