{"id":32652,"date":"2025-08-29T10:10:03","date_gmt":"2025-08-29T10:10:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/?p=32652"},"modified":"2025-08-29T10:10:07","modified_gmt":"2025-08-29T10:10:07","slug":"mode-noir-comme-des-garcons-rei-kawakubo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/mode-noir-comme-des-garcons-rei-kawakubo\/","title":{"rendered":"Le noir de Comme des Gar\u00e7ons, couleur vivante"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\">\n<p><em>Depuis les ann\u00e9es 1980, le noir n\u2019est plus une absence de couleur. Dans les mains de <\/em><strong><em>Rei Kawakubo<\/em><\/strong><em>, il devient un langage \u00e0 part enti\u00e8re, un terrain d\u2019exp\u00e9rimentation et de transgression. Chez <\/em><strong><em>Comme des Gar\u00e7ons<\/em><\/strong><em>, cette \u00ab non-couleur \u00bb devient un manifeste, un support fertile pour des volumes \u00e9tranges, des silhouettes \u00e9nigmatiques, des cr\u00e9ations qui flirtent autant avec l\u2019art qu\u2019avec la mode. Plong\u00e9e dans une esth\u00e9tique radicale o\u00f9 le noir, loin d\u2019\u00eatre neutre, se fait vibrant, mouvant et surtout indisciplin\u00e9.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p>Quand <strong>Comme des Gar\u00e7ons<\/strong> d\u00e9barque \u00e0 Paris en 1981 pour sa premi\u00e8re <strong>pr\u00e9sentation \u00e0 la Fashion Week<\/strong>, la mode japonaise n\u2019est pas encore un ph\u00e9nom\u00e8ne international. Six ans apr\u00e8s l\u2019ouverture de sa premi\u00e8re boutique \u00e0 Tokyo, <strong>Rei Kawakubo<\/strong> souffle un vent nouveau sur la capitale fran\u00e7aise. Un souffle qui n\u2019a jamais cess\u00e9 de s\u2019\u00e9pandre.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"427\" height=\"640\" src=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-Fall-2014-13.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-32660\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-Fall-2014-13.jpeg 427w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-Fall-2014-13-200x300.jpeg 200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 427px) 100vw, 427px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1022\" src=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-Fall-2014-23.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-32659\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-Fall-2014-23.jpeg 683w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-Fall-2014-23-200x300.jpeg 200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>D\u00e8s ce premier d\u00e9fil\u00e9, <strong>le ton est donn\u00e9<\/strong> : palette de couleurs r\u00e9duite, coupes asym\u00e9triques, tissus volontairement us\u00e9s. Le choc est imm\u00e9diat. Le noir s\u2019impose non pas comme une absence, mais comme <strong>un cri silencieux<\/strong>. La presse parle d\u2019un \u00ab Hiroshima chic \u00bb \u2014 une formule discutable mais r\u00e9v\u00e9latrice du bouleversement esth\u00e9tique provoqu\u00e9 par Kawakubo. En quelques saisons, elle devient <strong>l\u2019ic\u00f4ne de l\u2019anti-fashion caract\u00e9ristique des ann\u00e9es 1980<\/strong>, mouvement qui ne cherche pas \u00e0 s\u00e9duire mais \u00e0 interroger.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Bousculer les codes : le v\u00eatement comme langage\u00a0<\/strong><br><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Derri\u00e8re <strong>Comme des Gar\u00e7ons<\/strong>, une volont\u00e9 claire : <strong>d\u00e9construire<\/strong> ce que l\u2019on croit savoir du v\u00eatement. Rei Kawakubo ne suit pas les tendances, elle les tord, les d\u00e9sosse pour les recomposer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Chez elle, le corps n\u2019est pas \u00e0 mettre en valeur, mais \u00e0 questionner. On <strong>ajoute des volumes<\/strong>, on <strong>d\u00e9forme les lignes<\/strong>, on joue avec les asym\u00e9tries. Le v\u00eatement devient un <strong>rituel<\/strong>, souvent proche du vestiaire monacal.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"750\" height=\"1004\" src=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-ads-13.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-32656\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-ads-13.jpeg 750w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-ads-13-224x300.jpeg 224w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"500\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-ads-23.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-32655\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-ads-23.jpeg 500w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-ads-23-220x300.jpeg 220w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"420\" height=\"560\" src=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-ads-33-edited-1.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-32662\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-ads-33-edited-1.jpeg 420w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-ads-33-edited-1-225x300.jpeg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 420px) 100vw, 420px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Exemple embl\u00e9matique : la collection \u00ab&nbsp;<strong>Dress Meets Body, Body Meets Dress&nbsp;\u00bb<\/strong> (1997), une r\u00e9flexion saisissante sur le corps f\u00e9minin et la maternit\u00e9. Des silhouettes gonfl\u00e9es, des bosses artificielles, des formes inattendues. Le corps devient un <strong>m\u00e9dium<\/strong>, un v\u00e9ritable terrain de jeu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dans les ann\u00e9es 1980, la presse parle de \u00ab&nbsp;<strong>New Wave Beauty&nbsp;\u00bb<\/strong> pour qualifier le travail de Kawakubo. Une <strong>beaut\u00e9 d\u00e9centr\u00e9e<\/strong>, brute, souvent per\u00e7ue comme \u00e9trange ou d\u00e9rangeante par les canons occidentaux. Car chez Comme des Gar\u00e7ons, <strong>le v\u00eatement est politique<\/strong>, \u00e0 la crois\u00e9e de la <strong>sociologie<\/strong>, de <strong>l\u2019art contemporain<\/strong> et de <strong>l\u2019exp\u00e9rimentation textile<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Et la performance d\u00e9passe largement le v\u00eatement. <strong>Jean-Michel Basquiat<\/strong> d\u00e9file pour la marque en 1987. Plus tard, c\u2019est <strong>Dennis Hopper<\/strong>, acteur-r\u00e9alisateur culte, qui foule le podium. Le casting devient un mouvement artistique \u00e0 part enti\u00e8re.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Le noir, couleur neutre ?\u00a0<\/strong><br><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Plus qu\u2019un choix esth\u00e9tique, <strong>le noir devient la signature de Comme des Gar\u00e7ons<\/strong>. Il est m\u00eame au centre d\u2019une ligne d\u00e9di\u00e9e : <strong>Comme des Gar\u00e7ons Black<\/strong>, lanc\u00e9e en 2009 au c\u0153ur de la crise \u00e9conomique, comme un retour aux fondamentaux de la marque.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Contrairement \u00e0 l\u2019id\u00e9e d\u2019un noir neutre, effac\u00e9 ou fun\u00e8bre, <strong>Rei Kawakubo le traite comme une mati\u00e8re vivante<\/strong>. Elle en explore toutes les nuances, du charbon au noir bleut\u00e9, du mat au brillant, du transparent au dense. Comme le dit l\u2019historien <strong>Michel Pastoureau<\/strong> : <em>\u00ab Le noir est une couleur fertile \u00bb. <\/em>Et c\u2019est l\u00e0 tout le paradoxe : <strong>le noir, couleur associ\u00e9e \u00e0 la mort, devient chez Comme des Gar\u00e7ons un symbole de vie<\/strong>, de cr\u00e9ation, d\u2019\u00e9nergie brute. Un terrain vierge \u00e0 r\u00e9investir chaque saison. En somme, un espace de libert\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-2023-13-682x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-32658\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-2023-23-683x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-32657\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-2023-23-683x1024.jpeg 683w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-2023-23-200x300.jpeg 200w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-2023-23-768x1152.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-2023-23-1024x1536.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-2023-23-1080x1620.jpeg 1080w, https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/08\/CDG-2023-23.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Le noir de Comme des Gar\u00e7ons dialogue aussi avec d\u2019autres figures de la mode avant-gardiste, comme <strong>Yohji Yamamoto<\/strong> ou <strong>Ann Demeulemeester<\/strong>, qui ont \u00e9galement fait de cette teinte un outil de narration. Chez Kawakubo, le noir ne symbolise pas le retrait, mais l\u2019affirmation. Il permet d\u2019\u00e9chapper aux diktats, d\u2019habiller sans d\u00e9voiler. En ce sens, il refl\u00e8te une <strong>forme de r\u00e9sistance<\/strong> : contre l\u2019ultra-consommation, contre l\u2019\u00e9ph\u00e9m\u00e8re. Un noir plein, dense, habit\u00e9 \u2014 qui habille l\u2019esprit autant que le corps.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Chez Comme des Gar\u00e7ons, le noir <strong>interroge<\/strong>, <strong>perturbe<\/strong>, <strong>provoque<\/strong>. Il est le support d\u2019une vision radicale de la mode, o\u00f9 le v\u00eatement ne cherche ni \u00e0 flatter, ni \u00e0 rassurer, mais \u00e0 faire r\u00e9fl\u00e9chir. Dans un monde satur\u00e9 d\u2019images et de couleurs, Rei Kawakubo continue de faire du noir un manifeste : <strong>celui d\u2019une mode libre, profonde et indocile.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Article de <strong>Julie Boone<\/strong>.&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Depuis les ann\u00e9es 1980, le noir n\u2019est plus une absence de couleur. Dans les mains de Rei Kawakubo, il devient un langage \u00e0 part enti\u00e8re, un terrain d\u2019exp\u00e9rimentation et de transgression. Chez Comme des Gar\u00e7ons, cette \u00ab non-couleur \u00bb devient un manifeste, un support fertile pour des volumes \u00e9tranges, des silhouettes \u00e9nigmatiques, des cr\u00e9ations qui [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":32658,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4060,122],"tags":[1351,4268,4325,734,1978,809],"class_list":["post-32652","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brands","category-fashion","tag-cdg","tag-comme-des-garcons-2","tag-comme-des-garcons-black","tag-fashion-week","tag-pfw","tag-rei-kawakubo","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Le noir de Comme des Gar\u00e7ons, couleur vivante - Sneaker Spirit<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Chez Comme des Gar\u00e7ons, le noir est un terrain d\u2019exp\u00e9rimentation. 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