{"id":32796,"date":"2025-09-12T13:21:36","date_gmt":"2025-09-12T13:21:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/?p=32796"},"modified":"2025-09-12T13:21:39","modified_gmt":"2025-09-12T13:21:39","slug":"giorgio-armani-mort-createur-mode-heritage","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/giorgio-armani-mort-createur-mode-heritage\/","title":{"rendered":"Giorgio Armani ou l\u2019\u00e9l\u00e9gance \u00e9ternelle\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Surnomm\u00e9 le Maestro, Giorgio Armani s\u2019est \u00e9teint \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e2ge de 91 ans, laissant derri\u00e8re lui un empire de plusieurs milliards d\u2019euros. Inhum\u00e9 en toute discr\u00e9tion dans ville natale, les hommages, eux, se multiplient partout dans le monde. Retour sur une carri\u00e8re qui a red\u00e9fini les codes du costume et du glamour \u00e0 l\u2019italienne.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

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Une vision inalt\u00e9rable du v\u00eatement\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Jusqu\u2019\u00e0 ses derniers jours, Giorgio Armani <\/strong>est rest\u00e9 ma\u00eetre \u00e0 bord. \u00c0 91 ans, il continuait de diriger son empire avec une poigne de fer. Il incarnait l\u2019id\u00e9e d\u2019un cr\u00e9ateur total<\/strong> : celui qui contr\u00f4le chaque ligne, chaque tissu, chaque silhouette. Son approche du costume, qu\u2019il a d\u00e9construit d\u00e8s les ann\u00e9es 80, reste l\u2019un des apports majeurs \u00e0 l\u2019histoire de la mode contemporaine. \u00c0 rebours de la rigidit\u00e9 masculine h\u00e9rit\u00e9e des d\u00e9cennies pr\u00e9c\u00e9dentes<\/strong>, Armani a su imposer une \u00e9l\u00e9gance fluide<\/strong>. C\u2019est cette id\u00e9e du power dressing<\/em> \u2014 autorit\u00e9 et raffinement \u2014 qui a fait son succ\u00e8s, \u00e0 une \u00e9poque o\u00f9 les fronti\u00e8res du genre dans la mode commen\u00e7aient \u00e0 se fissurer<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Il suffit de se replonger dans ses d\u00e9fil\u00e9s les plus marquants pour percevoir, au-del\u00e0 des variations saisonni\u00e8res, la constance de sa vision. Pour le printemps\/ \u00e9t\u00e9 1996, la rigueur c\u00e8de enti\u00e8rement la place \u00e0 la fluidit\u00e9 ; les tissus semblent glisser \u00e0 m\u00eame la peau, <\/strong>donnant un effet presque liquide<\/strong>. Puis vient l\u2019ann\u00e9e 1999, o\u00f9 il brouille les rep\u00e8res avec une mise en sc\u00e8ne troublante <\/strong>et amusante<\/strong> : les mannequins d\u00e9filent par deux, comme des reflets en miroir \u2014 un dispositif qu\u2019il reprendra deux ans plus tard. Enfin, en 2008, son imaginaire s\u2019aventure vers d\u2019autres rivages<\/strong>, aux accents boh\u00e8mes et pirates : les pantalons \u00e0 pinces se muent en sarouels a\u00e9riens<\/strong>, la gamme chromatique se restreint \u00e0 l\u2019essentiel \u2014 bleu, sable, blanc, noir \u2014 et les accessoires s\u2019accumulent sans alourdir, dessinant des silhouettes libres. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Le cin\u00e9ma, l\u2019autre podium\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Mais Armani n\u2019\u00e9tait pas qu\u2019un ma\u00eetre du podium. Il fut aussi un architecte du style \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9cran. En 1980, alors que sa marque n\u2019avait que cinq ans, il signe l\u2019int\u00e9gralit\u00e9 de la garde-robe de Richard Gere<\/strong> dans American Gigolo<\/em>. Le costume \u2014 fluide mais parfaitement taill\u00e9 \u2014 transforme l\u2019acteur en sex-symbol<\/em>, et Armani en cr\u00e9ateur culte \u00e0 l\u2019international<\/strong>. La puissance du v\u00eatement Armani ne r\u00e9side donc pas seulement dans sa coupe, mais surtout dans sa capacit\u00e9 \u00e0 bousculer l\u2019ordre \u00e9tabli <\/strong>afin de cr\u00e9er une masculinit\u00e9 moderne<\/strong>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ce lien avec Hollywood ne s\u2019est jamais rompu. D\u00e8s 1978, Diane Keaton<\/strong> monte sur sc\u00e8ne pour recevoir son Oscar v\u00eatue d\u2019un blazer et d\u2019une jupe pliss\u00e9e sign\u00e9s Armani, d\u00e9fiant les codes traditionnels de la f\u00e9minit\u00e9 sur tapis rouge<\/strong>. En 1981, Grace Jones<\/strong> pose en couverture de son album Nightclubbing<\/em> dans une veste aux \u00e9paules exag\u00e9r\u00e9es de la maison italienne. En 1990, Julia Roberts<\/strong> appara\u00eet aux Golden Globes dans un costume gris : une silhouette devenue iconique, qui continue d\u2019inspirer une nouvelle g\u00e9n\u00e9ration d\u2019actrices. Loin des robes fourreaux habituelles, ce look incarne l\u2019esth\u00e9tique du \u00ab louche suiting \u00bb, subtil m\u00e9lange entre nonchalance et sophistication<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

M\u00eame les films r\u00e9cents continuent d\u2019\u00eatre travers\u00e9s par son influence. Pour Le Loup de Wall Street<\/em>, la cheffe costumi\u00e8re Sandy Powell<\/strong> fouille les archives Armani des ann\u00e9es 90, avec la b\u00e9n\u00e9diction du cr\u00e9ateur lui-m\u00eame. Seuls deux costumes apparaissent \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9cran sur Leonardo DiCaprio<\/strong>, mais l\u2019ombre du style Armani plane sur toute la silhouette du personnage<\/strong>. En 2024, \u00e0 Cannes, Hunter Schafer<\/strong> revisite le mythe de Cendrillon dans un bustier r\u00e9fl\u00e9chissant issu de la collection Armani Priv\u00e9 <\/strong>Printemps 2025. Quinze ans apr\u00e8s sa cr\u00e9ation, la ligne Armani Priv\u00e9 reste plus que jamais en phase avec son \u00e9poque.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Un h\u00e9ritage vivant\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Depuis l\u2019annonce de son d\u00e9c\u00e8s, le 4 septembre dernier, la mode semble en \u00e9tat de recueillement. Sur les plateformes de seconde main c\u2019est un tout autre \u00e9tat d\u2019esprit qui r\u00e8gne<\/strong> : les recherches de pi\u00e8ces vintage sign\u00e9es Armani ont explos\u00e9, autant en Europe qu\u2019aux \u00c9tats-Unis. Comme si chacun voulait s\u2019approprier un fragment du cr\u00e9ateur. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Il y a quelques mois encore, la maison Giorgio Armani c\u00e9l\u00e9brait ses 50 ans. Un anniversaire qui, r\u00e9trospectivement, sonne comme un testament. Peu de cr\u00e9ateurs auront r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 maintenir une telle coh\u00e9rence dans leur \u0153uvre. Son esth\u00e9tique n\u2019a jamais c\u00e9d\u00e9 aux sir\u00e8nes du clinquant ou aux tendances passag\u00e8res<\/strong>. Aujourd\u2019hui, son nom reste synonyme d\u2019\u00e9l\u00e9gance. Si le <\/strong>Maestro<\/em><\/strong> s\u2019est \u00e9teint, son \u0153uvre, elle, continue de d\u00e9filer.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Article de Julie Boone. <\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Surnomm\u00e9 le Maestro, Giorgio Armani s\u2019est \u00e9teint \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e2ge de 91 ans, laissant derri\u00e8re lui un empire de plusieurs milliards d\u2019euros. Inhum\u00e9 en toute discr\u00e9tion dans ville natale, les hommages, eux, se multiplient partout dans le monde. Retour sur une carri\u00e8re qui a red\u00e9fini les codes du costume et du glamour \u00e0 l\u2019italienne. Une vision […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":32798,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4060,4059,122],"tags":[4363,4360,4365,4359,4364,4367,4366,4361,4362],"class_list":["post-32796","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brands","category-culture","category-fashion","tag-american-gigolo","tag-armani","tag-diane-keaton","tag-giorgio-armani","tag-julia-roberts","tag-le-loup-de-wall-street","tag-louche-suiting","tag-maestro","tag-richard-gere","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\nGiorgio Armani ou l\u2019\u00e9l\u00e9gance \u00e9ternelle\u00a0 - Sneaker Spirit<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Giorgio Armani est d\u00e9c\u00e9d\u00e9 \u00e0 91 ans. 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