{"id":32852,"date":"2025-09-22T09:33:00","date_gmt":"2025-09-22T09:33:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/?p=32852"},"modified":"2025-09-22T09:33:02","modified_gmt":"2025-09-22T09:33:02","slug":"nyfw-2026-six-moments-forts-de-khaite-a-sandy-liang","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/nyfw-2026-six-moments-forts-de-khaite-a-sandy-liang\/","title":{"rendered":"NYFW SS26 : six moments clefs, de Khaite \u00e0 Sandy Liang\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Qu\u2019il s\u2019agisse de revisiter des arch\u00e9types, de red\u00e9finir la f\u00e9minit\u00e9 ou de faire \u00e9merger de nouvelles narrations autour du genre, cette saison, les designers ont pris position. Retour sur six moments cl\u00e9s qui ont marqu\u00e9 l\u2019\u00e9dition Printemps-\u00c9t\u00e9 2026.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

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La ville de New-York comme point de d\u00e9part\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Cette saison, plus qu\u2019une toile de fond, la ville de New York s’est transform\u00e9e en v\u00e9ritable source d\u2019inspiration<\/strong> pour les designers. Chez Calvin Klein<\/strong>, Veronica Leoni<\/strong> a r\u00e9interpr\u00e9t\u00e9 les symboles de la marque \u2014 notamment l\u2019\u00e9lastique brand\u00e9 des sous-v\u00eatements \u2014 pour en faire un \u00e9l\u00e9ment premium<\/em>. Les tailleurs, un brin classique, ont pris une nouvelle allure de kimono tandis que les d\u00e9collet\u00e9s carr\u00e9s faussement sages ont r\u00e9v\u00e9l\u00e9 des sous-v\u00eatements audacieux. Pour sa deuxi\u00e8me collection, la cr\u00e9atrice pose les premi\u00e8res pierres d\u2019une galerie de personnages en pleine \u00e9volution. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sandy Liang<\/strong>, elle, a fait de Chinatown le c\u0153ur battant de sa collection. Inspir\u00e9e par les grand-m\u00e8res du c\u00e9l\u00e8bre quartier chinois de New York, elle a propos\u00e9 des silhouettes girly<\/em> qui m\u00ealent pastel, vichy, dentelle, boutons surdimensionn\u00e9s et clins d\u2019oeil enfantins. Avec cette collection, la cr\u00e9atrice utilise le v\u00eatement pour rendre hommage \u00e0 ces figures f\u00e9minines peu visibles mais fondatrices. De son c\u00f4t\u00e9, la ligne Valentino Beauty<\/strong> a r\u00e9activ\u00e9 la m\u00e9moire collective en investissant, pour une nuit seulement, le mythique Studio 54<\/strong>. Si le club a repris vie, c\u2019est en partie gr\u00e2ce ses ic\u00f4nes, comme Cher<\/strong> ou encore Lenny Kravitz<\/strong>, qui ont une nouvelle fois, r\u00e9pondu pr\u00e9sents. \u00c0 en croire l\u2019influenceur mode @Lyas : \u00ab it was so good \u00bb.<\/em> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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R\u00e9\u00e9crire la f\u00e9minit\u00e9\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Cette \u00e9dition a confirm\u00e9 que la f\u00e9minit\u00e9, pour beaucoup de designers, ne rime pas (seulement) avec sensualit\u00e9. Tory Burch<\/strong> l\u2019a formul\u00e9e avec rigueur : des jupes sous le genou, des lignes sobres, et une palette qui tranche \u2014 rouge, jaune, bleu \u2014 comme pour injecter de la vitalit\u00e9 dans une silhouette volontairement contenue<\/strong>. Chez Khaite<\/strong>, sc\u00e9nario similaire de tension ma\u00eetris\u00e9e : textures riches, coupes pr\u00e9cises, avec en prime, une silhouette qui surgit de la brume. En parall\u00e8le, Amy Smilovic <\/strong>chez Tibi<\/strong> a \u00e9tay\u00e9 sa r\u00e9flexion autour des contrastes en s\u2019inspirant notamment du mouvement  (architectural) brutaliste.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Trouble dans le genre\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Pour explorer la dualit\u00e9, Collina Strada<\/strong> a pari\u00e9 sur une mise en sc\u00e8ne forte : les mannequins d\u00e9filaient par deux, habill\u00e9es de la m\u00eame fa\u00e7on. L\u2019une, en couleur, ouvrait la marche ; l\u2019autre, en noir, voil\u00e9e, la suivait \u00e0 quelques pas, comme une ombre. Ce jeu de doublure a r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 souligner toute l\u2019ambivalence du v\u00eatement. Une robe de mari\u00e9e, par exemple, devient une robe de deuil lorsqu\u2019elle passe du blanc au noir. En jouant sur ces oppositions, la cr\u00e9atrice questionne la mani\u00e8re dont le contexte, qu\u2019il soit social, politique ou intime, transforme la signification d\u2019une pi\u00e8ce et par extension notre fa\u00e7on de la porter. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Chez Khaite<\/strong>, la brume \u00e9paisse qui enveloppait le podium a volontairement brouill\u00e9 la lisibilit\u00e9 imm\u00e9diate des silhouettes. Un geste fort pour un d\u00e9fil\u00e9 cens\u00e9 pr\u00e9senter une collection dans son int\u00e9gralit\u00e9. Ici, le v\u00eatement ne se donne pas au premier regard.<\/strong> Il r\u00e9siste, se d\u00e9robe un instant, pour ensuite se laisser deviner. Comme s\u2019il fallait d\u00e9sapprendre \u00e0 voir trop vite\u2026 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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La pr\u00e9cision comme manifeste\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Dans une industrie o\u00f9 le rythme effr\u00e9n\u00e9 dicte souvent la forme, plusieurs maisons ont fait de la rigueur un engagement. Chez Khaite<\/strong>, chaque pi\u00e8ce passe entre les mains de Catherine Holstein,  <\/strong>la directrice artistique, avant d\u2019\u00eatre valid\u00e9e. \u00ab I\u2019m a big believer that your best marketing tool is good product \u00bb,<\/em> a-t-elle d\u00e9clar\u00e9 \u00e0 WWD<\/em>. Une philosophie appliqu\u00e9e \u00e0 la lettre. Enfin, Collina Strada<\/strong>, habituellement plus tape-\u00e0-l\u2019oeil, a mis son savoir-faire \u00e0 nu en d\u00e9clinant les m\u00eames patrons dans diff\u00e9rentes couleurs. En retirant la distraction de la couleur, la cr\u00e9atrice prouve d\u2019autant plus sa ma\u00eetrise des coupes et des volumes. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ce que l\u2019on retient de cette Fashion Week new-yorkaise : des collections pens\u00e9es comme des r\u00e9ponses aux ambigu\u00eft\u00e9s du monde, entre m\u00e9moire personnelle et collective. Si certaines ont convoqu\u00e9 l\u2019intime \u2014 la figure d\u2019une grand-m\u00e8re, une ville, une \u00e9motion \u2014 d\u2019autres ont travaill\u00e9 l\u2019ombre, la tension ou la r\u00e9sistance. Partout, une m\u00eame volont\u00e9 semble \u00e9merger<\/strong> : ralentir, r\u00e9fl\u00e9chir, raconter autrement. Ces propositions posent le v\u00eatement non plus comme simple tendance ou produit, mais comme m\u00e9dium : un espace de dialogue entre soi et le monde<\/strong>.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Article de Julie Boone<\/strong>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Qu\u2019il s\u2019agisse de revisiter des arch\u00e9types, de red\u00e9finir la f\u00e9minit\u00e9 ou de faire \u00e9merger de nouvelles narrations autour du genre, cette saison, les designers ont pris position. Retour sur six moments cl\u00e9s qui ont marqu\u00e9 l\u2019\u00e9dition Printemps-\u00c9t\u00e9 2026. La ville de New-York comme point de d\u00e9part\u00a0 Cette saison, plus qu\u2019une toile de fond, la ville […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":32859,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4060,4059,122],"tags":[1160,4385,734,4386,4384,4383,1084,4153,4387,4388],"class_list":["post-32852","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brands","category-culture","category-fashion","tag-calvin-klein","tag-collina-strada","tag-fashion-week","tag-khaite","tag-new-york-fashion-week","tag-nyfw","tag-sandy-liang","tag-ss26","tag-tibi","tag-valentino-beauty","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\nNYFW SS26 : six moments clefs, de Khaite \u00e0 Sandy Liang\u00a0 - Sneaker Spirit<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"De Calvin Klein \u00e0 Collina Strada, retour sur six moments forts de la Fashion Week de New York Printemps-\u00c9t\u00e9 2026.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/nyfw-2026-six-moments-forts-de-khaite-a-sandy-liang\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"NYFW SS26 : six moments clefs, de Khaite \u00e0 Sandy Liang\u00a0 - 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