{"id":32889,"date":"2025-09-26T15:23:06","date_gmt":"2025-09-26T15:23:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/?p=32889"},"modified":"2025-09-26T15:23:09","modified_gmt":"2025-09-26T15:23:09","slug":"london-fashion-week-recap-2025","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/london-fashion-week-recap-2025\/","title":{"rendered":"La Fashion Week de Londres en cinq temps forts\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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\u00c0 Londres, la mode n\u2019est jamais une simple affaire de tendance. Cette saison encore, les podiums ont servi de sc\u00e8nes pour raconter des histoires. Retour sur cinq visions singuli\u00e8res.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

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Conner Ives, quand la pop culture<\/em> rencontre l\u2019upcycling<\/em><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

R\u00e9v\u00e9l\u00e9 en habillant Adwoa Aboah<\/strong> pour le Met Gala alors qu\u2019il \u00e9tait encore \u00e9tudiant, Conner Ives <\/strong>continue de se frayer un chemin dans le monde de la mode. Le cr\u00e9ateur am\u00e9ricain bas\u00e9 \u00e0 Londres pr\u00e9sentait cette saison une collection intitul\u00e9e \u00ab <\/strong>On Pop \u00bb<\/strong>, accompagn\u00e9e du slogan : \u00ab Pop music will never be low brow \u00bb<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Un hommage haut en couleur \u00e0 la pop culture et aux ic\u00f4nes des ann\u00e9es 80<\/strong>. Sur le podium, des teintes flashy<\/strong> \u2014 vert pomme, fuchsia, orange n\u00e9on \u2014 s\u2019associent \u00e0 des collants galbants, des lunettes maxi et des franges fa\u00e7on par\u00e9o ou des robes effet \u00e9cailles de poisson. Fid\u00e8le \u00e0 son engagement \u00e9co-responsable, Ives continue de privil\u00e9gier l\u2019upcycling<\/em><\/strong> comme fil rouge de sa cr\u00e9ation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le salut final r\u00e9unissait l\u2019ensemble de ses mannequins, dont Iris Law<\/strong> et Osman Ahmed<\/strong>, autour du cr\u00e9ateur v\u00eatu d\u2019un t-shirt \u00e0 l\u2019effigie de Lady Gaga<\/strong>. Nulle autre que la reine de la pop. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ashley Williams ou le provincial<\/em> chic<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Chez Ashley Williams<\/strong>, le ton \u00e9tait donn\u00e9 d\u00e8s la note d\u2019intention : \u00ab What if hometown provincials deserve fashion too? \u00bb<\/em>. La cr\u00e9atrice nous embarque dans un souvenir<\/strong> collectif<\/strong>, celui d\u2019une enfance pass\u00e9e en province. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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La collection reprend les codes du vestiaire de<\/strong> grand-m\u00e8re <\/strong>: blouses fleuries, chaussures orthop\u00e9diques d\u00e9tourn\u00e9es en ugly shoes<\/em> hybrides \u00e0 talon, chemises de nuit \u00e0 volants\u2026 Tout semble venir d\u2019un pass\u00e9 familier<\/strong>, revu sous un prisme maximaliste et kitsch<\/strong>. Les accessoires d\u00e9tourn\u00e9s sont nombreux : rouleaux de papier toilette en guise de bracelets XXL, lani\u00e8res de chaussures devenues ceintures, perruques grisonnantes gonfl\u00e9es et sparadraps sur les genoux pour parfaire la panoplie. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

En superposition, un univers enfantin<\/strong> : un chat dans un panier en surimpression sur un body, des mini-cadres gliss\u00e9s dans les poches et des slogans m\u00e9galos comme \u00ab <\/strong>I Love Me \u00bb<\/strong>. Une collaboration avec la marque de bijoux Yvmin<\/strong> pourrait d\u2019ailleurs bien prolonger cet ADN joyeusement kitsch<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ashish : danse, paillettes et protestation<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Ashish n\u2019a jamais cach\u00e9 son go\u00fbt pour les messages militants. Lors de la pr\u00e9c\u00e9dente Fashion Week de Londres, alternative car non-officielle, le cr\u00e9ateur avait transform\u00e9 un lundi matin en v\u00e9ritable <\/strong>happening<\/em><\/strong> politique<\/strong>. Cette saison, c\u2019est dans un cadre plus officiel qu\u2019il poursuit son discours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sur un catwalk<\/em> carr\u00e9, les mannequins ont c\u00e9d\u00e9 la place \u00e0 des danseurs<\/strong>, donnant vie aux v\u00eatements par le mouvement plut\u00f4t que la marche. Une fa\u00e7on de rappeler que le v\u00eatement n\u2019est pas une contrainte mais une extension du corps. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

La collection reste fid\u00e8le \u00e0 l\u2019esth\u00e9tique de la maison : couleurs vives, paillettes \u00e0 profusion, sequins, volants, et t-shirts \u00e0 slogans grin\u00e7ants : \u00ab Wow, what a shit show \u00bb<\/em>, \u00ab Not in the mood \u00bb<\/em>. Une explosion de joie<\/strong> teint\u00e9e de revendication, qui prouve que la mode peut \u00eatre \u00e0 la fois un spectacle<\/strong> et une tribune<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Simone Rocha : entre innocence et m\u00e9tamorphose<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Chez Simone Rocha<\/strong>, le d\u00e9fil\u00e9 explorait un entre-deux subtil, celui du passage de l\u2019adolescence \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e2ge adulte. Inspir\u00e9e par les rallyes<\/strong> \u2014 ces bals de la haute soci\u00e9t\u00e9 o\u00f9 les jeunes filles font leur entr\u00e9e dans le monde \u2014 la cr\u00e9atrice imagine une h\u00e9ro\u00efne d\u2019abord tout en maladresse. Bretelles qui tombent, coussin port\u00e9 \u00e0 bras-le-corps, fleurs pi\u00e9g\u00e9es dans le tissu ou imprim\u00e9es \u00e0 m\u00eame le v\u00eatement. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Avant de s\u2019\u00e9largir aux \u00e9paules, les silhouettes sont tout en volume, notamment gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 la crinoline volontairement r\u00e9v\u00e9l\u00e9e par du tissu en transparence. Cette migration, des hanches aux \u00e9paules, symbolise une \u00e9volution, une affirmation. La palette m\u00eale les incontournables noir, rouge et rose<\/strong>, relev\u00e9s de touches de vert \u2014 comme un clin d’\u0153il \u00e0 la floraison<\/strong>. C\u00f4t\u00e9 accessoires : couronnes, mitaines \u00e0 sequins, n\u0153uds discrets et chaussures pr\u00e9cieuses parach\u00e8vent ce conte.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dilara Findikoglu : nouvelle armure <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Dipl\u00f4m\u00e9e de la Central Saint Martins, Dilara Findikoglu<\/strong> a r\u00e9v\u00e9l\u00e9 \u00ab Cage of Innocence \u00bb.<\/strong> Cette s\u00e9rie de portraits hybrides, \u00e0 la crois\u00e9e des \u00e9poques et des genres, montre que, malgr\u00e9 les contraintes physiques, mentales et sociales, les femmes ont toujours trouv\u00e9 la force de se battre. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Si le corset, symbole d\u2019oppression, est omnipr\u00e9sent, il est contrebalanc\u00e9 par une s\u00e9rie d\u2019accessoires m\u00e9talliques qui rappellent la cotte de maille<\/strong>, sugg\u00e9rant non pas la soumission, mais la pr\u00e9paration au combat<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La collection \u00e0 la crois\u00e9e du gothique et de l\u2019\u00e9poque victorienne, op\u00e8re toutefois un tournant plus commercial en s\u2019\u00e9loignant du noir au profit d\u2019une palette de rouges, blancs et beiges. Si l\u2019esth\u00e9tique reste radicale, elle gagne en accessibilit\u00e9, sans rien c\u00e9der de sa charge symbolique<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Article de Julie Boone<\/strong>. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00c0 Londres, la mode n\u2019est jamais une simple affaire de tendance. Cette saison encore, les podiums ont servi de sc\u00e8nes pour raconter des histoires. Retour sur cinq visions singuli\u00e8res. Conner Ives, quand la pop culture rencontre l\u2019upcycling R\u00e9v\u00e9l\u00e9 en habillant Adwoa Aboah pour le Met Gala alors qu\u2019il \u00e9tait encore \u00e9tudiant, Conner Ives continue de […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":32896,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4060,122,4058],"tags":[4399,4398,3454,4400,734,3272,4401,1204,2472],"class_list":["post-32889","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brands","category-fashion","category-style","tag-ashish","tag-ashley-williams","tag-conner-ives","tag-dilara-findikoglu","tag-fashion-week","tag-iris-law","tag-lfw","tag-london-fashion-week","tag-simone-rocha","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\nLa Fashion Week de Londres en cinq temps forts\u00a0 - 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