{"id":33064,"date":"2025-10-09T08:45:12","date_gmt":"2025-10-09T08:45:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/?p=33064"},"modified":"2025-10-22T08:10:53","modified_gmt":"2025-10-22T08:10:53","slug":"mode-nouvelle-garde-createrices-fashion-week-ss26","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/mode-nouvelle-garde-createrices-fashion-week-ss26\/","title":{"rendered":"La nouvelle-garde mode sera f\u00e9minine ou ne sera pas"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Alors que les projecteurs restent majoritairement braqu\u00e9s sur des figures masculines dans les grandes maisons de mode, une autre sc\u00e8ne se dessine, plus souterraine, et surtout port\u00e9e par des femmes. Une vague de jeunes cr\u00e9atrices internationales s\u2019impose avec force, bousculant les codes du vestiaire contemporain. Entre exp\u00e9rimentation, narration intime et rejet des st\u00e9r\u00e9otypes de genre, cette nouvelle g\u00e9n\u00e9ration red\u00e9finit les contours du v\u00eatement. <\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

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Le constat est sans appel : malgr\u00e9 les grands discours sur l’inclusivit\u00e9 et la diversit\u00e9, tr\u00e8s peu de femmes occupent aujourd\u2019hui les postes de direction artistique dans les grandes maisons de luxe<\/strong>. Et lorsqu\u2019elles y parviennent, c\u2019est souvent au prix d\u2019un parcours sem\u00e9 d\u2019emb\u00fbches. Pour beaucoup, il semble encore que la seule voie possible pour exister soit de cr\u00e9er sa propre marque. C\u2019est ce qu\u2019ont choisi de faire ces cr\u00e9atrices venues des quatre coins du monde.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Le bureau r\u00eav\u00e9 de Jenny Fax<\/a><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

La cr\u00e9atrice ta\u00efwanaise Jenny Fax<\/strong>, form\u00e9e \u00e0 La Cambre \u00e0 Bruxelles, a pr\u00e9sent\u00e9 sa collection printemps-\u00e9t\u00e9 2026 en marge de la Fashion Week de Paris. Son univers hyper-color\u00e9, \u00e0 la fois doux et perturbant, o\u00f9 se m\u00ealent influences am\u00e9ricaines et culture ta\u00efwanaise \u00e9tait au rendez-vous. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cette saison, elle s\u2019int\u00e9resse aux moments de divagation mentale au travail, ces instants suspendus o\u00f9 l\u2019esprit s\u2019\u00e9chappe malgr\u00e9 le cadre rigide du bureau. Le r\u00e9sultat ? Des silhouettes flottantes, envelopp\u00e9es d\u2019un l\u00e9ger brouillard, comme issues d\u2019un songe. Des \u00e9l\u00e9ments du vestiaire professionnel<\/strong> \u2014 blazers, blouses, chemises \u2014 sont r\u00e9interpr\u00e9t\u00e9s \u00e0 travers des superpositions de collants, chaussettes, sous-v\u00eatements, dans une esth\u00e9tique presque enfantine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Une collaboration remarqu\u00e9e avec le label D\u2019Heyg\u00e8re<\/strong>, fond\u00e9 par la cr\u00e9atrice belge St\u00e9phanie D\u2019Heyg\u00e8re<\/strong>, vient renforcer cette vision ludique et subversive d\u2019un quotidien trop norm\u00e9<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Paula Canovas del Vas<\/a>, l\u2019intimit\u00e9 sous les projecteurs <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Bas\u00e9e \u00e0 Londres et dipl\u00f4m\u00e9e de la Central Saint Martins, la cr\u00e9atrice espagnole Paula Canovas del Vas<\/strong> poursuit son exploration des paradoxes contemporains, notamment celui entre l\u2019intime et les r\u00e9seaux sociaux. Sa collection SS26, intitul\u00e9e \u00ab Private Matters \u00bb <\/em>a \u00e9t\u00e9 pr\u00e9sent\u00e9e en pleine rue <\/em>dans un camion transform\u00e9 en salle de bains. La performance questionne : comment les gestes autrefois priv\u00e9s \u2014 se pr\u00e9parer, s’habiller, se maquiller \u2014 sont devenus des rituels publics, fa\u00e7onn\u00e9s par le regard des autres et surtout par les r\u00e9seaux sociaux ?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Les v\u00eatements oscillent entre camouflage et nudit\u00e9. Fid\u00e8le \u00e0 son univers pop, Paula m\u00eale rayures, fleurs, volumes inattendus et couleurs vives. Elle d\u00e9voile \u00e9galement une nouvelle collaboration avec Converse<\/strong>, partenaire depuis plusieurs saisons, d\u00e9tournant la Converse basse et la tr\u00e8s haute avec des empi\u00e8cements \u00e0 fleurs. Sous ses airs ludiques, la collection agit comme un miroir d\u00e9formant de notre quotidien.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Florentina Leitner<\/a>, une ode \u00e0 la jeunesse rebelle<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

La cr\u00e9atrice autrichienne Florentina Leitner<\/strong> signe avec \u00ab My Heart Will Go On \u00bb<\/em> un hommage \u00e0 l\u2019adolescence. L\u2019h\u00e9ro\u00efne de la saison ? La skateuse, l\u2019arch\u00e9type de la \u00ab\u00a0cool girl\u00a0\u00bb des ann\u00e9es 2000, \u00e0 la fois libre et insaisissable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Le d\u00e9fil\u00e9, install\u00e9 dans un parking souterrain o\u00f9 r\u00e9sonne des sons de moteurs, ressemble \u00e0 une vir\u00e9e nocturne entre copines. Les r\u00e9f\u00e9rences Y2K abondent : tatouages \u00e9ph\u00e9m\u00e8res, bonnets enfonc\u00e9s sur les tempes, m\u00e8ches rebelles, jupes taille basse, tops asym\u00e9triques\u2026 Mais derri\u00e8re l\u2019esth\u00e9tique pop, se cache une vraie tendresse. Cette collection agit comme une madeleine de Proust, ravivant les sensations d\u2019une jeunesse insouciante et rebelle. Chez Leitner, l\u2019adolescente des ann\u00e9es 2000 ne grandit jamais vraiment\u2026 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Le chaos \u00e9l\u00e9gant de Fa\u00e7on Jacmin<\/a> <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Derri\u00e8re la marque belge Fa\u00e7on Jacmin<\/strong>, deux s\u0153urs jumelles : Alexandra<\/strong> (form\u00e9e \u00e0 La Cambre, comme Jenny Fax) et S\u00e9gol\u00e8ne Jacmin<\/strong>. Ensemble, elles imaginent un vestiaire upcycl\u00e9<\/strong> au savoir-faire impeccable, sans jamais l\u00e9siner sur la fantaisie. Leur collection SS26, intitul\u00e9e \u00ab The Morning After \u00bb<\/em>, en est un parfait exemple.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le d\u00e9cor est plant\u00e9 : un lendemain de f\u00eate, entre confettis au sol, talons abandonn\u00e9s, ballons encore accroch\u00e9s. Dans ce capharna\u00fcm orchestr\u00e9, les mannequins incarnent des personnages \u00e0 la fois absurdes et touchants : l\u2019une se transforme en table vivante, une autre marche sur un tapis roulant en stilettos, une troisi\u00e8me s\u2019habille (ou se d\u00e9shabille) en dansant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u00c0 travers ces sc\u00e8nettes, Fa\u00e7on Jacmin interroge le paradoxe de son propre vestiaire : comment conjuguer structure et chaos, rigueur et d\u00e9sordre, recyclage et luxe. La r\u00e9ponse se trouve dans les d\u00e9tails impeccables, les coupes pr\u00e9cises. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Face \u00e0 une industrie encore verrouill\u00e9e par des logiques patriarcales et commerciales, ces cr\u00e9atrices font figure de contre-pouvoir. Elles ne suivent pas les r\u00e8gles : elles les r\u00e9\u00e9crivent. \u00c0 leur fa\u00e7on. Et  surtout au f\u00e9minin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Article de Julie Boone<\/strong>. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Alors que les projecteurs restent majoritairement braqu\u00e9s sur des figures masculines dans les grandes maisons de mode, une autre sc\u00e8ne se dessine, plus souterraine, et surtout port\u00e9e par des femmes. Une vague de jeunes cr\u00e9atrices internationales s\u2019impose avec force, bousculant les codes du vestiaire contemporain. Entre exp\u00e9rimentation, narration intime et rejet des st\u00e9r\u00e9otypes de genre, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":33070,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4060,122,4058],"tags":[4433,734,4432,4430,1282,4431,1978],"class_list":["post-33064","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brands","category-fashion","category-style","tag-facon-jacmin","tag-fashion-week","tag-florentina-leitner","tag-jenny-fax","tag-paris-fashion-week","tag-paula-canovas-del-vas","tag-pfw","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\nLa nouvelle-garde mode sera f\u00e9minine ou ne sera pas - Sneaker Spirit<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"La rel\u00e8ve mode s\u2019\u00e9crit au f\u00e9minin : quatre cr\u00e9atrices \u00e0 suivre vues \u00e0 la Fashion Week printemps-\u00e9t\u00e9 2026 \u00e0 Paris.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/mode-nouvelle-garde-createrices-fashion-week-ss26\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"La nouvelle-garde mode sera f\u00e9minine ou ne sera pas - 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