{"id":33078,"date":"2025-10-09T08:59:36","date_gmt":"2025-10-09T08:59:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/?p=33078"},"modified":"2025-10-09T08:59:40","modified_gmt":"2025-10-09T08:59:40","slug":"mode-retour-bumster-mcqueen-sean-mcgirr","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/mode-retour-bumster-mcqueen-sean-mcgirr\/","title":{"rendered":"Que dit le retour du \u00ab bumster \u00bb dans la mode f\u00e9minine ?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Longtemps d\u00e9cri\u00e9e, la taille ultra-basse revient en force sur les podiums. En premi\u00e8re ligne : Sean McGirr chez Alexander McQueen, qui exhume le mythique \u00ab\u00a0bumster\u00a0\u00bb. D\u00e9cryptage de ce retour qui tombe \u00e0 pic pour la maison britannique.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

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Un h\u00e9ritage McQueen remis en jeu<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Deux ans apr\u00e8s sa nomination chez McQueen<\/strong>, Sean McGirr<\/strong> continue de s\u2019approprier l\u2019h\u00e9ritage de la maison. Pour le printemps-\u00e9t\u00e9 2026, il remet au go\u00fbt du jour une pi\u00e8ce iconique : le \u00ab bumster \u00bb<\/strong>, pantalon ultra taille basse con\u00e7u par le regrett\u00e9 Alexander McQueen<\/strong> en 1993.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c0 l\u2019\u00e9poque, l\u2019autre enfin terrible de la mode cherche \u00e0 redessiner la silhouette : montrer la naissance des fesses<\/strong>, allonger le torse<\/strong>, bref, bousculer les normes. Une pi\u00e8ce radicale, au plus pr\u00e8s du corps, devenue culte. Sa successeur, Sarah Burton<\/strong> l\u2019avait d\u00e9j\u00e0 r\u00e9habilit\u00e9 en 2023, avant de quitter la maison pour Givenchy<\/strong>. Aujourd\u2019hui, Sean McGirr le convoque \u00e0 son tour. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Un choix qui n\u2019est pas anodin, alors que le groupe Kering<\/strong>, propri\u00e9taire de la marque, traverse une p\u00e9riode d\u00e9licate : r\u00e9sultats en baisse, ajustements strat\u00e9giques, et jeu des chaises musicales dans les directions artistiques pour tenter de re-dynamiser ses maisons<\/strong>. Dans ce contexte, cette plong\u00e9e dans les archives McQueen appara\u00eet comme une tentative claire de re-positionnement<\/strong> : puiser dans le pass\u00e9 pour mieux assurer l\u2019avenir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Mais ce retour aux fondamentaux suffira-t-il \u00e0 faire de Sean McGirr un v\u00e9ritable successeur \u00e0 la hauteur du mythe McQueen ?\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

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Une silhouette f\u00e9minine \u00e0 la sensualit\u00e9 d\u00e9brid\u00e9e<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Contrairement aux saisons pr\u00e9c\u00e9dentes, la collection printemps-\u00e9t\u00e9 2026 de Sean McGirr est exclusivement f\u00e9minine. Et c\u2019est le \u00ab bumster \u00bb<\/strong> qui en devient le fil rouge. D\u00e9clin\u00e9 en pantalon de costume, en jupe taille basse ou en short utilitaire, il sert de base \u00e0 un vestiaire hybride, entre tailoring<\/em><\/strong> classique<\/strong> et esprit <\/strong>grunge<\/em><\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ici, la sensualit\u00e9 ne passe plus par la silhouette filiforme \u00e0 la Kate Moss<\/strong> ou la Alexa Chung<\/strong> du d\u00e9but des ann\u00e9es 2000. Si le bas du dos est bien mis en valeur, les courbes aussi sont pleinement assum\u00e9es<\/strong>. McGirr ne cherche pas \u00e0 gommer les formes, mais \u00e0<\/strong> travailler avec<\/strong>, notamment \u00e0 travers des jupes port\u00e9es bas sur les hanches, amplifi\u00e9es par des poches lat\u00e9rales<\/strong> qui re-dessinent la ligne du bassin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ces poches ne sont pas qu\u2019esth\u00e9tiques : elles signalent aussi une volont\u00e9 de conjuguer allure sexy <\/strong>et fonctionnalit\u00e9<\/strong>. Une mani\u00e8re de dire que le corps peut \u00eatre montr\u00e9 sans \u00eatre vuln\u00e9rable<\/strong>, et que le v\u00eatement n\u2019est pas qu\u2019un outil de s\u00e9duction. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

L\u2019ensemble s\u2019inscrit dans une ambiance tr\u00e8s indie sleaze<\/em><\/strong>, o\u00f9 les codes Y2K<\/em> sont revisit\u00e9s avec ironie : eyeliner noir d\u00e9goulinant<\/strong>, veste officier port\u00e9e \u00e0 m\u00eame la peau<\/strong>, attitude d\u00e9sinvolte<\/strong>, presque insolente. Une f\u00e9minit\u00e9 libre, qui se moque des conventions. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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L\u2019ultra sexy assum\u00e9\u2026 mais genr\u00e9<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Parmi les marqueurs forts du d\u00e9fil\u00e9 : le string port\u00e9 bien haut<\/strong>, volontairement visible au-dessus du pantalon taille basse. Une provocation directe, d\u00e9tourn\u00e9e dans une version couture. Autre clin d\u2019\u0153il \u00e0 l\u2019hyper-sexualisation Y2K<\/em> : des mini-jupes \u00e0 peine plus larges qu\u2019une ceinture<\/strong>, dans l\u2019esprit de celles popularis\u00e9es ces derni\u00e8res saisons par Diesel<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Mais cette approche ne concerne que les corps f\u00e9minins<\/strong>. Aucune silhouette masculine<\/strong> ne vient brouiller les lignes. Et c\u2019est l\u00e0 que le geste perd de sa force. En convoquant des symboles de lib\u00e9ration corporelle, Sean McGirr reste malgr\u00e9 tout enferm\u00e9 dans une lecture genr\u00e9e <\/strong>de ce qui peut \u00eatre sexy. Le corps des femmes continue d\u2019\u00eatre l\u2019unique support de provocation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c0 titre de comparaison, Anthony Vaccarello<\/strong> chez Saint Laurent<\/strong> va plus loin dans la remise en question des normes : lorsqu\u2019il fait d\u00e9filer des hommes en cuissardes<\/strong>, il renverse les codes de genre de fa\u00e7on subversive. L\u00e0 o\u00f9 McGirr s\u00e9duit<\/strong>, Vaccarello d\u00e9stabilise. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Avec ce retour du bumster<\/strong>, Sean McGirr signe une collection qui coche les bonnes cases : archives respect\u00e9es, tendances actuelles int\u00e9gr\u00e9es, ex\u00e9cution ma\u00eetris\u00e9e. Une proposition qui fonctionne visuellement, mais qui manque encore cruellement d\u2019audace.<\/strong> En centrant tout sur le corps f\u00e9minin, \u00e0 peine r\u00e9affirm\u00e9 et surtout sexualis\u00e9, McGirr fait dans le r\u00e9chauff\u00e9 en rejouant les provocations d\u2019hier\u2026 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Article de Julie Boone<\/strong>. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Longtemps d\u00e9cri\u00e9e, la taille ultra-basse revient en force sur les podiums. En premi\u00e8re ligne : Sean McGirr chez Alexander McQueen, qui exhume le mythique \u00ab\u00a0bumster\u00a0\u00bb. D\u00e9cryptage de ce retour qui tombe \u00e0 pic pour la maison britannique.\u00a0 Un h\u00e9ritage McQueen remis en jeu Deux ans apr\u00e8s sa nomination chez McQueen, Sean McGirr continue de s\u2019approprier […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":33086,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4060,4059,122,4058],"tags":[734,4436,783,4348,1978,4347,4435,4438],"class_list":["post-33078","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brands","category-culture","category-fashion","category-style","tag-fashion-week","tag-indie-sleaze","tag-kering","tag-mcqueen","tag-pfw","tag-sarah-burton","tag-sean-mcgirr","tag-taille-basse","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\nQue dit le retour du \u00ab bumster \u00bb dans la mode f\u00e9minine ? 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