{"id":33345,"date":"2025-11-20T10:54:27","date_gmt":"2025-11-20T10:54:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/?p=33345"},"modified":"2025-11-25T20:42:23","modified_gmt":"2025-11-25T20:42:23","slug":"mode-indie-sleaze-retour-dolman","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/mode-indie-sleaze-retour-dolman\/","title":{"rendered":"Cette pi\u00e8ce indie sleaze fait un retour triomphal\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\n

Ic\u00f4ne des ann\u00e9es 2010 et chouchoute de l\u2019esth\u00e9tique indie sleaze ressuscit\u00e9e par la Gen Z, la veste officier \u2013 ou plut\u00f4t la v\u00e9ritable veste hussard \u2013 r\u00e9appara\u00eet dans les vestiaires. Entre h\u00e9ritage militaire, rock britannique et profonde nostalgie, retour sur une pi\u00e8ce culte qui refuse d\u2019\u00eatre rang\u00e9e au placard.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Au placard le style Y2K<\/em>, place \u00e0 l\u2019Indie Sleaze\u00a0<\/em><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Alors que la mode semblait tourner en boucle autour de l\u2019esth\u00e9tique Y2K<\/em>, c\u2019est finalement l\u2019Indie Sleaze<\/strong> qui fait un retour remarqu\u00e9. Ce courant, apparu au tournant des ann\u00e9es 2010, se reconna\u00eet \u00e0 ses codes bien pr\u00e9cis<\/strong> : vestes officiers, premiers it bags<\/em>, figures embl\u00e9matiques des it girls<\/em>, maquillage \u00ab messy \u00bb \u00e0 base de kh\u00f4l et de mascara fa\u00e7on Taylor Momsen<\/strong>, bottes en cuir \u00e0 clous, et jeans skinny qui dessinent une silhouette \u00e0 la fois rock et d\u00e9sinvolte.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c0 l\u2019\u00e9poque, Kate Moss<\/strong> s\u2019impose comme la pr\u00eatresse absolue de ce style. Curieusement, on ne l’appelait pas encore \u00ab indie sleaze \u00bb : le terme est plut\u00f4t r\u00e9trospectif. \u00c0 l\u2019\u00e9poque, on parlait plut\u00f4t de style \u00ab indie \u00bb ou m\u00eame de \u00ab hipster \u00bb. Comme l\u2019a r\u00e9sum\u00e9 un utilisateur de Reddit :<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u00ab Indie sleaze never existed until Gen Z invented it. We were all just called hipsters lol. \u00bb<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Ce qui n\u2019\u00e9tait qu\u2019une esth\u00e9tique spontan\u00e9e et un peu chaotique est aujourd\u2019hui devenu un mouvement ultra codifi\u00e9<\/strong> dont la Gen Z tente de raviver l\u2019essence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Une l\u00e9gende militaire devenue un symbole rock<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

La pi\u00e8ce phare qu\u2019on croyait red\u00e9couvrir sous le nom de \u00ab veste officier \u00bb est en r\u00e9alit\u00e9 souvent une veste hussard<\/strong>, ou plus pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment un dolman<\/strong> \u2014 une veste courte, tr\u00e8s orn\u00e9e, inspir\u00e9e du costume d\u2019officier de c\u00e9r\u00e9monie. Orn\u00e9e de tresses dor\u00e9es ou argent\u00e9es, elle rime avec un certain prestige typique de l\u2019uniforme militaire.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Comme beaucoup d\u2019\u00e9l\u00e9ments venus du vestiaire martial \u2014 casquettes, treillis, boots \u2014 elle a d\u2019abord \u00e9t\u00e9 r\u00e9cup\u00e9r\u00e9e par les artistes. Dans les ann\u00e9es 1960, Jimi Hendrix, Keith Richards ou Mick Jagger s\u2019en emparent<\/strong>, d\u00e9tournant la pi\u00e8ce en v\u00e9ritable symbole rock. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Au d\u00e9but des ann\u00e9es 2000, la veste \u00e0 \u00e9paulettes et galons refait surface. Chez Alexander McQueen<\/strong>, d\u00e8s le printemps-\u00e9t\u00e9 2003, les silhouettes oscillent entre pirate et officier, comme sorties de l\u2019\u00e9cume ou d\u2019un after<\/em>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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@alexandermcqueen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

De l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la Manche, Balmain<\/strong> adopte \u00e0 son tour cette pi\u00e8ce iconique sous la direction de Christophe Decarnin<\/strong>, qui insuffle une \u00e9nergie rock et profond\u00e9ment contemporaine \u00e0 la maison. La silhouette typique de la fin des ann\u00e9es 2000 ? Balmain<\/strong> \u2014 avant m\u00eame que la Balmain Army<\/em> d\u2019Olivier Rousteing<\/strong> ne prenne le relais. Decarnin en avait d\u00e9j\u00e0 pr\u00e9par\u00e9 le terrain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Du placard \u00e0 archives aux collections actuelles\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Aujourd\u2019hui, on ne ressort pas seulement les vestes d\u2019\u00e9poque : on exhume tout l\u2019arsenal de l\u2019\u00e8re indie sleaze<\/em>. Parmi les artefacts de retour : les c\u00e9l\u00e8bres plateformes vertigineuses Jeffrey Campbell<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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@balmain<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"
@balmain<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Les boutiques vintage comme les plateformes de seconde main surfent \u00e9videmment sur cette vague. Mais les cr\u00e9ateurs eux-m\u00eames s\u2019y replongent volontiers : c\u2019est notamment le cas chez McQueen<\/strong>, o\u00f9 Sean McGirr r\u00e9interpr\u00e8te la pi\u00e8ce \u00e0 sa mani\u00e8re<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Comment s\u2019approprier la tendance aujourd\u2019hui ?<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Pour adopter cette pi\u00e8ce sans tomber dans l\u2019uniforme ou la reconstitution historique, l\u2019enjeu est de d\u00e9samorcer son h\u00e9ritage militaire<\/strong>. La veste reste une pi\u00e8ce forte : elle doit capter l\u2019attention tout en s\u2019int\u00e9grant \u00e0 une silhouette contemporaine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On peut jouer sur les proportions en l\u2019associant \u00e0 un jeans <\/strong>oversize<\/em><\/strong>, dont le volume cr\u00e9e un contraste int\u00e9ressant avec la coupe ajust\u00e9e du dolman. Le reste de la tenue peut rester volontairement \u00e9pur\u00e9 : un t-shirt blanc ou un d\u00e9bardeur bien coup\u00e9 suffit \u00e0 \u00e9quilibrer l\u2019ensemble. Le but est de laisser la veste occuper le devant de la sc\u00e8ne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"\"
@hodanyousuf<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"
@rubipigeon<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Certaines choisissent au contraire d\u2019assumer pleinement l\u2019h\u00e9ritage rock du v\u00eatement. C\u2019est le cas de la styliste et cr\u00e9atrice de contenu Laura Le Marquand<\/strong>, qui opte souvent pour un total look noir. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Qu\u2019on mise sur la sobri\u00e9t\u00e9 ou sur une allure plus pointue, l\u2019essentiel est de conserver une forme de simplicit\u00e9 autour de la veste, afin de faire ressortir son caract\u00e8re exceptionnel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aujourd\u2019hui, elle rena\u00eet \u00e0 travers l\u2019esprit d\u00e9sordonn\u00e9 et audacieux du d\u00e9but des ann\u00e9es 2010, ouvrant un nouveau chapitre pour une pi\u00e8ce qui a d\u00e9j\u00e0 v\u00e9cu mille vies. Entre h\u00e9ritage militaire, rock et \u00e8re des micro-tendances, le dolman prouve que certaines pi\u00e8ces ne se contentent pas de revenir : elles continuent d\u2019\u00e9crire leur propre histoire<\/strong>, g\u00e9n\u00e9ration apr\u00e8s g\u00e9n\u00e9ration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Article de Julie Boone<\/strong>. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ic\u00f4ne des ann\u00e9es 2010 et chouchoute de l\u2019esth\u00e9tique indie sleaze ressuscit\u00e9e par la Gen Z, la veste officier \u2013 ou plut\u00f4t la v\u00e9ritable veste hussard \u2013 r\u00e9appara\u00eet dans les vestiaires. Entre h\u00e9ritage militaire, rock britannique et profonde nostalgie, retour sur une pi\u00e8ce culte qui refuse d\u2019\u00eatre rang\u00e9e au placard. Au placard le style Y2K, place […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":33361,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4059,122,4058],"tags":[4524,4434,1032,4529,4436,4530,4528,4525,4531,4526,4527],"class_list":["post-33345","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-culture","category-fashion","category-style","tag-2010s","tag-alexander-mcqueen","tag-balmain","tag-christophe-decarnin","tag-indie-sleaze","tag-jeffrey-campbell","tag-rock-n-roll","tag-taylor-momsen","tag-uniforme","tag-veste-dolman","tag-veste-militaire","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\nCette pi\u00e8ce indie sleaze fait un retour triomphal\u00a0 - Sneaker Spirit<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"La veste dolman, ic\u00f4ne du style indie sleaze, fait son grand retour. 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