{"id":33984,"date":"2026-01-15T09:35:29","date_gmt":"2026-01-15T09:35:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/?p=33984"},"modified":"2026-01-27T17:51:16","modified_gmt":"2026-01-27T17:51:16","slug":"saint-laurent-mombasa-sac-iconique-histoire","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/saint-laurent-mombasa-sac-iconique-histoire\/","title":{"rendered":"Le Mombasa de Saint Laurent, histoire d’un sac mythique r\u00e9\u00e9dit\u00e9 par Anthony Vaccarello\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Les accessoires demeurent le socle \u00e9conomique des grandes maisons. Mais cr\u00e9er un it-bag ex nihilo rel\u00e8ve aujourd\u2019hui de l\u2019exploit. Face \u00e0 ce constat, les maisons pr\u00e9f\u00e8rent souvent puiser dans leurs archives. Balenciaga, Chlo\u00e9 ou Louis Vuitton ont ouvert la voie : la r\u00e9\u00e9dition rassure tout en capitalisant sur la nostalgie. Lorsqu\u2019un sac voit sa cote remonter sur les plateformes de seconde-main, il est synonyme de top d\u00e9part pour les maisons. Saint Laurent ne fait pas exception et relance, quatorze ans apr\u00e8s son lancement, le Mombasa. Anthony Vaccarello en reprend les codes tout en l\u2019ancrant dans le pr\u00e9sent, notamment \u00e0 travers le choix de Bella Hadid comme \u00e9g\u00e9rie. D\u00e9cryptage d\u2019un retour qui \u00e9tait \u00e0 pr\u00e9voir. <\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

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2002 : naissance d\u2019un sac devenu ic\u00f4ne<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Baptis\u00e9 du nom d\u2019une ville du littoral sud du Kenya, le Mombasa voit le jour en 2002, au sein de la collection printemps-\u00e9t\u00e9 de Tom Ford<\/strong> pour Yves Saint Laurent<\/strong>. Une collection ouvertement inspir\u00e9e par l\u2019Afrique de l\u2019Est, largement ponctu\u00e9e par l\u2019imprim\u00e9 l\u00e9opard et un imaginaire aujourd\u2019hui discut\u00e9. Le raccourci Afrique\u2013animalier, largement accept\u00e9 \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9poque, ne passerait sans doute plus tel quel aujourd\u2019hui. Pourtant, en ce d\u00e9but des ann\u00e9es 2000, Tom Ford fait l\u2019unanimit\u00e9<\/strong>. Sa vision audacieuse, sensuelle impose une nouvelle grammaire. On se souvient particuli\u00e8rement de son travail chez Gucci <\/strong>qui a permis \u00e0 la maison italienne de se moderniser. Avec le recul, ce n\u2019est d\u2019ailleurs pas tant la collection SS02<\/em> dans son ensemble qui est rest\u00e9e dans les m\u00e9moires que la naissance d\u2019un sac devenu iconique. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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@elevated_archives<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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@andrea__ricci<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Le Mombasa s\u2019est imm\u00e9diatement impos\u00e9 gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 un d\u00e9tail fort : sa anse sculpturale en forme de d\u00e9fense d\u2019\u00e9l\u00e9phant<\/strong>. Un \u00e9l\u00e9ment signature, reconnaissable entre tous qui fait fondre les it-girls<\/em> du d\u00e9but des ann\u00e9es 2000 et envahit tapis rouges et pages de magazines avant de dispara\u00eetre progressivement des radars, victime du renouvellement incessant des tendances.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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De l\u2019oubli au retour en gr\u00e2ce : le r\u00f4le cl\u00e9 de la <\/strong>seconde main<\/strong><\/a><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

L\u2019essor de la seconde main a toutefois chang\u00e9 la donne. Sans redevenir omnipr\u00e9sent, le Mombasa a retrouv\u00e9 une place singuli\u00e8re dans l\u2019\u00e9cosyst\u00e8me du luxe vintage<\/strong>, que ce soit en ligne ou en boutique, par exemple chez nh\u1ecfgirl<\/strong><\/a>, <\/em>showroom ultra en vue dans la capitale hollandaise. Avant m\u00eame l\u2019annonce de sa r\u00e9\u00e9dition officielle, on le retrouvait \u00e0 partir de 500 euros, preuve d\u2019un int\u00e9r\u00eat persistant et d\u2019un d\u00e9sir latent. Une cote suffisamment stable pour attirer l\u2019attention de la maison. La r\u00e9\u00e9dition orchestr\u00e9e par Saint Laurent ne fera qu\u2019amplifier cette dynamique, entra\u00eenant m\u00e9caniquement une hausse des prix, y compris sur le march\u00e9 secondaire.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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@nh\u1ecfgirl<\/strong><\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Au fil des ann\u00e9es, le Mombasa s\u2019est d\u00e9clin\u00e9 sous de multiples formes : version Saint-Tropez agr\u00e9ment\u00e9e de volants en cuir, interpr\u00e9tation baguette, cuirs lisses ou peaux travaill\u00e9es, palettes de couleurs vives. Pour son retour, Anthony Vaccarello fait un choix mesur\u00e9<\/strong>. Il privil\u00e9gie d\u2019abord le mod\u00e8le originel : un sac hobo<\/em> port\u00e9 \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9paule, d\u00e9clin\u00e9 en trois tailles, du sac \u00e0 main au format fourre-tout. L\u2019un des coloris adopte un cuir \u00e0 l\u2019aspect volontairement patin\u00e9, presque vintage, comme un clin d\u2019\u0153il assum\u00e9 \u00e0 l\u2019histoire de la pi\u00e8ce et \u00e0 son statut d\u2019objet d\u00e9j\u00e0 charg\u00e9 de m\u00e9moire.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Vaccarello, l\u2019archive comme mati\u00e8re vivante<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

En r\u00e9\u00e9ditant le Mombasa, Saint Laurent ne se contente pas de ressusciter un succ\u00e8s pass\u00e9 : la maison affirme une strat\u00e9gie devenue vitale dans l\u2019univers du luxe. \u00c0 une \u00e9poque o\u00f9 la nouveaut\u00e9 absolue peine \u00e0 s\u2019imposer, l\u2019archive<\/strong><\/a> devient un v\u00e9ritable terrain de jeu<\/strong>. Anthony Vaccarello<\/strong> ne cherche ni \u00e0 figer le sac dans la nostalgie, ni \u00e0 le transformer radicalement. Il l\u2019ancre dans un pr\u00e9sent o\u00f9 la culture mode se nourrit autant des images d\u2019archives que des tendances venus de la seconde main.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La r\u00e9\u00e9dition du Mombasa s\u2019inscrit dans la campagne printemps-\u00e9t\u00e9 2026, pr\u00e9sent\u00e9e au pied de la Tour Eiffel et inspir\u00e9e par les ann\u00e9es 1980. Le sac, \u00e0 la crois\u00e9e des \u00e9poques, incarne cette capacit\u00e9 rare \u00e0 transcender les cycles : il demeure au-dessus de la m\u00eal\u00e9e des tendances, symbole d\u2019un <\/strong>it-bag<\/em><\/strong> intemporel qui continue de s\u00e9duire les g\u00e9n\u00e9rations et de marquer l\u2019histoire de Saint Laurent.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Article de Julie Boone<\/strong>. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Les accessoires demeurent le socle \u00e9conomique des grandes maisons. Mais cr\u00e9er un it-bag ex nihilo rel\u00e8ve aujourd\u2019hui de l\u2019exploit. Face \u00e0 ce constat, les maisons pr\u00e9f\u00e8rent souvent puiser dans leurs archives. Balenciaga, Chlo\u00e9 ou Louis Vuitton ont ouvert la voie : la r\u00e9\u00e9dition rassure tout en capitalisant sur la nostalgie. Lorsqu\u2019un sac voit sa cote […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":33991,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4060,4059,122],"tags":[4727,4730,1193,4731,4726,4725,260,3358,2479,4729,4728,991,2273],"class_list":["post-33984","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brands","category-culture","category-fashion","tag-anthony-vaccarello","tag-balenciaga-city-bag","tag-bella-hadid","tag-chloe-paddington","tag-it-bag","tag-mombasa","tag-reedition","tag-saint-laurent","tag-seconde-main","tag-ss02","tag-tom-ford","tag-vintage","tag-ysl","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\nLe Mombasa de Saint Laurent, histoire d'un sac mythique r\u00e9\u00e9dit\u00e9 par Anthony Vaccarello\u00a0 - Sneaker Spirit<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Le sac Mombasa de Saint Laurent, cr\u00e9\u00e9 par Tom Ford en 2002 et r\u00e9\u00e9dit\u00e9 par Anthony Vaccarello en 2026, s\u2019impose comme un it-bag intemporel. 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