{"id":34060,"date":"2026-01-20T15:37:25","date_gmt":"2026-01-20T15:37:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/?p=34060"},"modified":"2026-01-20T15:37:29","modified_gmt":"2026-01-20T15:37:29","slug":"dolce-gabbana-prada-valentino-milan-2026","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/dolce-gabbana-prada-valentino-milan-2026\/","title":{"rendered":"\u00c9l\u00e9gance et fracas : Milan 2026 sur le fil de la mode"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Chaque mois de janvier, les Fashion Weeks masculines ouvrent la saison et esquissent les premi\u00e8res lignes de force \u00e0 venir. \u00c0 Milan, cette \u00e9dition a mis en lumi\u00e8re un contraste saisissant\u202f: d\u2019un c\u00f4t\u00e9, Dolce & Gabbana, fid\u00e8le \u00e0 ses provocations\u202f; de l\u2019autre, Prada, qui explore subtilement le temps, la m\u00e9moire et la durabilit\u00e9 des v\u00eatements. Entre scandales m\u00e9diatiques et propositions introspectives, la capitale lombarde a r\u00e9v\u00e9l\u00e9 les tensions persistantes entre h\u00e9ritage et responsabilit\u00e9. La disparition de Valentino Garavani, survenue lundi, parach\u00e8ve cette \u00e9dition, soulignant en filigrane l\u2019influence durable de la maison italienne.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

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Dolce & Gabbana, l\u2019\u00e9ternel faux pas<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Si l\u2019inclusivit\u00e9 s\u2019est impos\u00e9e comme un mot-cl\u00e9 incontournable dans l\u2019industrie, sa mise en pratique ne semble pas \u00eatre pour tout de suite. Les mentalit\u00e9s \u00e9voluent, mais \u00e0 un rythme qui contraste avec la vitesse de circulation des images et des discours. Chez Dolce & Gabbana<\/strong>, cette dissonance semble faire partie des murs de la maison. Chaque nouvelle collection ravive ainsi les m\u00eames controverses, donnant l\u2019impression d\u2019une maison en d\u00e9calage<\/strong> persistant avec les enjeux de son \u00e9poque.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cette saison, la collection The Portrait of a Man<\/em> affichait pourtant une intention claire sur le papier : \u00ab Il n\u2019existe pas une seule mani\u00e8re d\u2019\u00eatre un homme. Il existe une infinit\u00e9 de possibilit\u00e9s. Chacune m\u00e9rite son portrait. \u00bb Une d\u00e9claration imm\u00e9diatement contredite par un casting exclusivement compos\u00e9 de mannequins blancs.<\/strong> Un choix d\u2019autant plus difficile \u00e0 justifier que la collection revendiquait pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment la pluralit\u00e9 des masculinit\u00e9s.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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@lyas<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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La critique s\u2019est rapidement empar\u00e9e du sujet. Lyas<\/strong>, influenceur et observateur averti de l\u2019industrie, a r\u00e9sum\u00e9 l\u2019affaire avec une ironie mordante en \u00e9voquant \u00ab 50 nuances de blanc \u00bb pour qualifier les 110 silhouettes pr\u00e9sent\u00e9es<\/strong>. Le malaise s\u2019est amplifi\u00e9 lorsque Bella Hadid<\/strong>, activiste et mannequin, a publiquement d\u00e9nonc\u00e9 le soutien accord\u00e9 \u00e0 la marque par une partie du milieu. Elle n\u2019est d\u2019ailleurs pas la seule \u00e0 s\u2019\u00eatre exprim\u00e9e, de nombreuses personnalit\u00e9s de la mode, mais aussi de la musique se sont exprim\u00e9es. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ce nouvel \u00e9pisode s\u2019inscrit dans une s\u00e9rie de scandales qui ont progressivement isol\u00e9 Dolce & Gabbana de nombreux professionnels. Si la maison conserve une visibilit\u00e9 culturelle et m\u00e9diatique certaine, elle appara\u00eet aujourd\u2019hui comme fig\u00e9e dans une autre temporalit\u00e9, \u00e0 contre-courant des attentes actuelles<\/strong>, dans une industrie pourtant en pleine mutation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Prada, le temps comme mati\u00e8re premi\u00e8re<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u00c0 l\u2019inverse, Prada<\/strong> proposait une r\u00e9flexion plus nuanc\u00e9e, presque introspective. Sous l\u2019impulsion de Miuccia Prada<\/strong> et Raf Simons<\/strong>, la collection pr\u00e9sent\u00e9e \u00e0 la Fondation Prada s\u2019est construite autour de silhouettes ajust\u00e9es, volontairement sobres, perturb\u00e9es par une s\u00e9rie de d\u00e9tails dissonants<\/strong> : lacets color\u00e9s autour des bottines, manches de chemises us\u00e9es, ceintures bris\u00e9es, trenchs marqu\u00e9s par des plis, boutons de manchette inattendus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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@prada fw26<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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@prada fw26<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Le vestiaire, majoritairement sombre et structur\u00e9, laissait appara\u00eetre quelques respirations chromatiques, notamment \u00e0 travers des cols en U, pr\u00e9f\u00e9r\u00e9s aux d\u00e9coupes plus conventionnelles en V. Derri\u00e8re cette apparente rigueur, la collection livrait surtout un message fort : celui de la dur\u00e9e. Garder, r\u00e9parer, transmettre. Porter des v\u00eatements marqu\u00e9s par le temps comme on porterait une m\u00e9moire. Une r\u00e9flexion presque politique, \u00e0 rebours de l\u2019acc\u00e9l\u00e9ration permanente de la mode.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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@prada fw26<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Mais l\u00e0 encore, une contradiction a \u00e9t\u00e9 relev\u00e9e par certains spectateurs. La maigreur extr\u00eame des mannequins, accentu\u00e9e par la coupe ajust\u00e9e des manteaux, a brouill\u00e9 la lecture du propos. L\u00e0 o\u00f9 Prada pr\u00f4nait la r\u00e9sistance \u00e0 l\u2019usure et \u00e0 l\u2019obsolescence, l\u2019image projet\u00e9e semblait v\u00e9hiculer une id\u00e9e de restriction, voire de privation<\/strong>, venant parasiter la force du message initial. Sur TikTok, certains internautes n\u2019ont pas h\u00e9sit\u00e9 \u00e0 qualifier la collection de \u00ab\u202fcosplay des populations les plus pauvres\u202f\u00bb<\/strong>, r\u00e9v\u00e9lant combien la perception digitale peut transformer et parfois d\u00e9tourner le sens d\u2019une intention cr\u00e9ative.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Comme ultime note de cette Fashion Week milanaise, la disparition de Valentino Garavani<\/strong>, figure tut\u00e9laire de l\u2019\u00e9l\u00e9gance italienne<\/strong>, est venue rappeler l\u2019importance de la m\u00e9moire et de la transmission dans une industrie en perp\u00e9tuelle mutation. Pourtant, entre provocations mal calibr\u00e9es et discours parfois contredits, la semaine a surtout r\u00e9v\u00e9l\u00e9 une difficult\u00e9 persistante\u202f: concilier intentions, images et responsabilit\u00e9s. Milan se trouve plus que jamais \u00e0 un carrefour\u202f: honorer un pass\u00e9 prestigieux sans le figer, et r\u00e9pondre \u00e0 un pr\u00e9sent exigeant qui ne se satisfait plus de symboles creux. La question demeure\u202f: la mode italienne saura-t-elle avancer sans tr\u00e9bucher sur ses propres contradictions\u202f?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Article de Julie Boone<\/strong>. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Chaque mois de janvier, les Fashion Weeks masculines ouvrent la saison et esquissent les premi\u00e8res lignes de force \u00e0 venir. \u00c0 Milan, cette \u00e9dition a mis en lumi\u00e8re un contraste saisissant\u202f: d\u2019un c\u00f4t\u00e9, Dolce & Gabbana, fid\u00e8le \u00e0 ses provocations\u202f; de l\u2019autre, Prada, qui explore subtilement le temps, la m\u00e9moire et la durabilit\u00e9 des v\u00eatements. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":34065,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4060,4059,122,4058],"tags":[4755,734,4756,4403,4389,2026,2027,2024,4757],"class_list":["post-34060","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brands","category-culture","category-fashion","category-style","tag-dolce-gabbana","tag-fashion-week","tag-fw26","tag-mfw","tag-milan-fashion-week","tag-miuccia-prada","tag-prada","tag-raf-simons","tag-valentino-garavani","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\n\u00c9l\u00e9gance et fracas : Milan 2026 sur le fil de la mode - Sneaker Spirit<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"\u00c0 Milan, Dolce & Gabbana provoque toujours, tandis que Prada r\u00e9fl\u00e9chit au temps et \u00e0 la m\u00e9moire. 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