{"id":34076,"date":"2026-01-23T16:58:19","date_gmt":"2026-01-23T16:58:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/?p=34076"},"modified":"2026-01-27T16:47:30","modified_gmt":"2026-01-27T16:47:30","slug":"fashion-week-paris-homme-fw26-vestiaire-masculin-codes-reinventes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sneakerspirit.courir.com\/fr\/fashion-week-paris-homme-fw26-vestiaire-masculin-codes-reinventes\/","title":{"rendered":"\u00c0 Paris, le vestiaire masculin FW26 s\u2019\u00e9mancipe des codes \u00e9tablis"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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\u00c0 Paris, la Fashion Week masculine automne-hiver 2026 d\u00e9voile ses collections dans une atmosph\u00e8re presque studieuse. Loin des pol\u00e9miques qui ont r\u00e9cemment agit\u00e9 Milan, la capitale fran\u00e7aise opte pour une approche plus introspective. Une saison qui met en lumi\u00e8re des maisons d\u00e9cid\u00e9es \u00e0 red\u00e9finir les contours du vestiaire masculin, \u00e0 inventer une nouvelle grammaire, parfois affranchie des st\u00e9r\u00e9otypes de genre, tout en \u00e9tant tr\u00e8s attentive aux usages r\u00e9els des pi\u00e8ces pr\u00e9sent\u00e9es. Parmi les signaux forts de cette \u00e9dition : l\u2019accessoire, et plus particuli\u00e8rement le sac \u00e0 main, d\u00e9sormais pleinement int\u00e9gr\u00e9 aux silhouettes masculines ainsi que les couleurs vives. <\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

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Le sac \u00e0 main<\/strong><\/a>, nouveau must<\/em> du vestiaire masculin <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Longtemps consid\u00e9r\u00e9 comme un apanage f\u00e9minin, le sac \u00e0 main s\u2019impose aujourd\u2019hui comme une \u00e9vidence dans le vestiaire masculin. Chez 3.Paradis<\/strong>, il devient presque un uniforme. Le sac bowling, port\u00e9 \u00e0 la main ou serr\u00e9 sous le bras comme un paquetage. Il est pens\u00e9 comme une extension naturelle de la tenue, accord\u00e9 sans effort apparent. Peut-\u00eatre une fa\u00e7on de convaincre les plus r\u00e9ticents sans trop faire de vague\u2026 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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@3.PARADIS @nowfashion<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Cette int\u00e9gration se retrouve aussi chez Louis Vuitton<\/strong>. Pour cette saison, Pharrell Williams<\/strong> pousse plus loin la logique de fonctionnalit\u00e9 en introduisant un Speedy<\/em> r\u00e9versible, jusque dans les anses. Un objet double usage, pens\u00e9 pour un homme de 2026 en qu\u00eate de style mais qui ne veut pas perdre en confort. Le sac ne compl\u00e8te plus la silhouette, il en devient un pilier<\/strong>. Dans le m\u00eame esprit, chez AMI Paris<\/strong>, les \u00e9couteurs filaires se portent autour du cou comme un collier, une fa\u00e7on de montrer que le fonctionnel peut aussi \u00eatre synonyme de tendance. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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@louisvuitton<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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M\u00eame constat chez Sonia Carrasco<\/strong>, o\u00f9 la fronti\u00e8re des genres s\u2019efface volontairement. Hommes et femmes d\u00e9filent ensemble, portant le m\u00eame sac baguette, sans distinction ni hi\u00e9rarchie<\/strong>. Le geste est clair : le sac n\u2019est plus genr\u00e9, il est un outil, un compagnon de quotidien. Saison apr\u00e8s saison, les marques d\u00e9montrent que ce qui \u00e9tait per\u00e7u comme subversif est d\u00e9sormais une pi\u00e8ce centrale du dressing masculin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Une masculinit\u00e9 en mutation<\/strong><\/a>, haute en couleurs <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Cette saison parisienne se distingue \u00e9galement par une explosion chromatique<\/strong> assum\u00e9e. Chez EGONLAB<\/strong>, les plumes prennent la place des chemises, se portent pr\u00e8s du corps, dans des teintes franches et vibrantes. Exit les silhouettes froides et monochromes : le duo explore une masculinit\u00e9 expressive, presque sensible, o\u00f9 la couleur et la mati\u00e8re deviennent un langage \u00e0 part enti\u00e8re.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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@EGONLAB<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Chez Dries Van Noten<\/strong>, pour sa deuxi\u00e8me collection \u00e0 la t\u00eate de la ligne masculine, Julian Klausner <\/strong>compose une sorte de patchwork<\/strong>. Les premi\u00e8res silhouettes \u00e9voquent une forme d\u2019innocence, presque enfantine, avant de glisser vers des r\u00e9f\u00e9rences aux sports d\u2019hiver des ann\u00e9es 1970<\/strong>. Rayures, pulls, \u00e9charpes et sacs se r\u00e9pondent, tandis que les mati\u00e8res jouent sur des contrastes subtils : la laine domine, la soie s\u2019invite<\/strong>, donnant naissance \u00e0 des silhouettes d\u2019une fluidit\u00e9 rare dans le vestiaire masculin. Intitul\u00e9e The Art of Moving On<\/em>, la collection superpose les couches, les \u00e9poques et les \u00e9motions, comme une invitation \u00e0 avancer sans renier le pass\u00e9.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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@driesvannoten<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Cette id\u00e9e de construction progressive se retrouve chez Sonia Carrasco<\/strong>. Les coutures apparentes, les fils visibles et les vestes volontairement inachev\u00e9es sugg\u00e8rent une masculinit\u00e9 en devenir, encore en train de se dessiner<\/strong>. Le v\u00eatement semble se fabriquer sous les yeux du public, pla\u00e7ant le spectateur au c\u0153ur du processus cr\u00e9atif, dans l\u2019intimit\u00e9 de l\u2019atelier.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Enfin, Yohji Yamamoto<\/strong> propose une vision radicalement diff\u00e9rente, presque post-apocalyptique<\/strong>. Les silhouettes se camouflent, se prot\u00e8gent, s\u2019emmitouflent. Chapeaux con\u00e7us \u00e0 partir de capsules de bouteilles, vestes d\u2019officier flirtant avec l\u2019imprim\u00e9 camouflage, accessoires d\u00e9tourn\u00e9s : l\u2019id\u00e9e de survie traverse le d\u00e9fil\u00e9. Moment fort de cette Fashion Week, la pr\u00e9sence du rappeur franco-congolais Jolagreen<\/strong>, qui d\u00e9file \u00e0 deux reprises avant de cl\u00f4turer le show<\/em>, incarne cette masculinit\u00e9 plurielle<\/strong>, au carrefour des \u00e9poques mais aussi des identit\u00e9s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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@yohjiyamamotoofficial<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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@yohjiyamamotoofficial<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u00c0 travers ces silhouettes mouvantes, les cr\u00e9ateurs esquissent un vestiaire qui se lib\u00e8re progressivement des injonctions fig\u00e9es<\/strong>. Une saison qui ne cherche pas \u00e0 provoquer, mais \u00e0 construire, dessinant les contours d\u2019un homme multiple, \u00e0 la fois attach\u00e9 au fonctionnel mais profond\u00e9ment sensible. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Article de Julie Boone<\/strong>. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00c0 Paris, la Fashion Week masculine automne-hiver 2026 d\u00e9voile ses collections dans une atmosph\u00e8re presque studieuse. Loin des pol\u00e9miques qui ont r\u00e9cemment agit\u00e9 Milan, la capitale fran\u00e7aise opte pour une approche plus introspective. Une saison qui met en lumi\u00e8re des maisons d\u00e9cid\u00e9es \u00e0 red\u00e9finir les contours du vestiaire masculin, \u00e0 inventer une nouvelle grammaire, parfois […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":34089,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4060,4059,122],"tags":[4758,4029,2857,734,4756,4714,557,173,1282,1978,315,4666,4759,4760],"class_list":["post-34076","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brands","category-culture","category-fashion","tag-3-paradis-2","tag-dries-van-noten","tag-egonlab","tag-fashion-week","tag-fw26","tag-jolagreen","tag-louis-vuitton","tag-paris","tag-paris-fashion-week","tag-pfw","tag-pharrell-williams","tag-sac-a-main","tag-sonia-carrasco","tag-yohji-yamamoto","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\n\u00c0 Paris, le vestiaire masculin FW26 s\u2019\u00e9mancipe des codes \u00e9tablis - 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