The Fédération Française de la Haute Couture has released the official schedule for the upcoming men’s fashion week, set to take place in Paris at the end of June. In Sneaker Spirit’s selection, five standout labels including two ANDAM finalists represent the new wave of menswear.
As Paris Fashion Week, June 2025, gets ready to spotlight the best in menswear and genderless fashion, a wave of fresh energy is set to hit the runways, driven by a handful of rising designers. Though less publicized than the heritage houses, these five brands are shaping a bold new creative scene. From Jeanne Friot’s queer activism to Willy Chavarria’s subversive elegance, LGN’s sharp tailoring, Ziggy Chen’s poetic minimalism, and Juun.J’s exuberant style each brings a distinctive voice redefining the future of menswear.
Jeanne Friot: fashion as a political statement
Joan of Arc striding along the Seine in full armor for the Olympic Games closing ceremony? Jeanne Friot is the mind behind the striking silhouette that made headlines around the world. The rising French designer, a key figure on the genderless fashion scene, sees clothing as a form of manifesto with each piece carrying a powerful political message.
Her signature? Armor, of course. A metaphor for the fight for greater inclusivity, runs through her collections taking the form of thigh-high boots strapped with belt buckles or bold statement tees. One reads, “A woman is somebody, not somebody,” worn by a model in a short skirt and white boots. Another, emblazoned with “Visions,” contrasts with red-rimmed eyes or models wearing black contact lenses.
Minimalist in her palette black, white, red, and metallic accents Jeanne Friot strips things down to the essentials: subverting, fluidifying, but above all, resisting. Her committed approach also resonated during her powerful appearance on Saveria Mendella’s podcast Les Gens de la mode, in the episode titled “QUEER.”
Juun.J, master of street tailoring
On the official Paris calendar since 2007, South Korean label Juun.J has established itself as a benchmark in street tailoring. Blending precision with bold excess, the brand offers a deconstructed wardrobe that defies convention.
For its Fall 2025 collection, the label plays with volume and layering. Collars overlap, and trousers look as if they might slip off at any moment. Each look seems to hold two silhouettes in one, a peaceful coexistence of opposites.
Tailoring, whether in denim or flannel, is approached with the same technical precision as classic suiting. The color palette remains understated black, grey, white but the possibilities for experimentation are endless. As seen at Jeanne Friot, the casting is mixed, proving that the gender binary of the fashion calendar is an outdated reference point.
Will the next Paris show confirm this search for an unstable balance? We’ll find out in June.
Louis Gabriel Nouchi: sensuality under control
With collections rooted in literary references from Maupassant’s Bel-Ami to Camus’ The Stranger Louis Gabriel Nouchi has for several seasons now championed a cerebral, sensual, and inclusive fashion. His sharply tailored wardrobe deconstructs masculine archetypes without erasing them.
His strength lies in blending the rigor of tailoring with the softness of draping. Borrowing sheer fabrics from lingerie and cut-outs from dresses, he redefines masculinity in plural form. Bodies are boldly revealed, often in black, a color he claims as his signature
Like Jeanne Friot, his fashion speaks to all gender identities. It tells the story of men embracing their vulnerability and desires. Nouchi was also invited by Saveria Mendella on the podcast Les Gens de la mode, further recognition for this discreet yet influential figure, who has just launched a new collaboration with Puma.
Willy Chavarria, highly political
This past January, Willy Chavarria made a sensational debut in Paris. For his first runway show in the French capital, the American designer of Mexican descent brought a crowd of stars to the catwalk including Honey Dijon, J Balvin, and Paloma Elsesser and delivered a powerful message of tolerance at the American Church, a symbolic setting.
He celebrates Chicano culture, queer heritage, and marginalized communities as a direct response to the tightening of anti-immigration and anti-LGBTQ+ laws in the United States and beyond.
At the same time, Chavarria is marking the 10th anniversary of his brand and has just been named a finalist for the ANDAM Prize. While he remains committed to showing at New York Fashion Week as an act of resistance, Paris seems eager to welcome him for the long run.
He’ll be one to watch this June, with a new show that is going to be unmissable.
Ziggy Chen: Textile Roots
Originally from Shanghai, Ziggy Chen offers a poetic, effortlessly elegant wardrobe imbued with softness. For last autumn winter, the brand’s designer, Chen Xiang, unveiled a collection in an organic palette of muted, weathered tones evoking the passage of time, moss green, faded violet, dusty grey. The subtle yet present prints reveal invisible roots, like buried traces waiting to resurface.
The Ziggy Chen man is a modern dandy, drifting between eras and identities, who wears melancholy with grace.
His upcoming show promises to unearth a new layer of this textile poetry.
Article by Julie Boone.
