To mark the first-ever Slow Fashion Week in Marseille, organized by the BAGA collective, independent label MaisonCléo unveiled its fifth collection, La Gâtée, against one of the city’s most iconic backdrops. A radiant interlude combining sensuality and French craftsmanship, the show kicks off the summer season under the banner of eco-responsibility.
MaisonCléo, an independent and committed fashion label
Founded in 2017 by Marie Dewet and her mother, MaisonCléo has embraced a decidedly independent approach to fashion from the very beginning: made-to-order production, full cost transparency, and artisanal manufacturing in northern France. Far from the constraints of traditional fashion calendars, “the brand follows no schedule or trend. No fixed collections just new designs based on seasons, desires, and available fabrics.” This deliberately offbeat approach hasn’t stopped MaisonCléo from making waves, including a coveted spot at Paris Fashion Week, where it mainly showcased a collection beneath the dome of the Espace Niemeyer.
A clear passion for architecture, once again affirmed by the brand during its fifth runway show, was held on Monday, June 9. This time, MaisonCléo chose Marseille’s coastline as its backdrop, specifically the Porte d’Orient, a monumental arch overlooking the Corniche Kennedy. This exceptional setting hosted the unveiling of its latest collection as part of Slow Fashion Week, an event organized by the BAGA collective and supported by the City of Marseille, spotlighting eco-responsible fashion in some of the city’s most iconic locations.
A collection which feels like summer
Titled La Gâtée, a typically Marseillais term of endearment, the collection celebrates the Mediterranean spirit in all its sensuality. Below, swimmers dive into the calanques, while barefoot models walk along sun-warmed pavement, as if they too had just emerged from the sea. The soundtrack features sun-soaked melodies, evoking the promise of carefree summer days.
On the wardrobe front, MaisonCléo stayed true to what it does best: a soft, sensual, and confident take on femininity. A tricolor palette of blue, white, and red nods to its French craftsmanship while affirming its growing international reach, the brand is now stocked by several renowned multi-brand retailers abroad.
With a mix of polka dots, mini and maxi, vintage-style florals, retro gingham, delicate crochet, and sheer accents, La Gâtée offers a sun-kissed wardrobe. Ruffles and detailed collars from demure Peter Pans to bolder necklines grace short dresses and blouses, perfect for transitioning from the coastline to the city without ever needing to stop home.
Between polka dots (mini or maxi), vintage-style floral prints, retro gingham, delicate crochet, and sheer effects, La Gâtée creates a sun-drenched wardrobe. Ruffles and detailed collars from demure Peter Pans to bolder necklines, adorn short dresses and blouses, perfect for transitioning from the seaside to the city without a stop at home.
Among the standout pieces: the show-opening dress with an oversized collar and a two-in-one mix of prints; a denim set featuring a blouse with a wide white neckline and high-waisted cropped pants with white buttons; and a flowing trapeze dress with white polka dots on a red background, blending comfort and ultra-femininity. The showstopper? A bride veiled in tulle, closely followed by Marie Dewet herself, stepping forward in an off-white slip-style dress waving to the crowd, or making her own runway debut?
A wardrobe designed for every expression of femininity
While the designer’s final bow left a gentle air of ambiguity, her commitment is crystal clear. MaisonCléo remains true to its values: fabrics sourced from deadstock, made-to-order production with an approximate 20-day lead time, and the option for custom pieces even for life’s biggest moments, like weddings.
Sustainable fashion, in step with the times, designed for all bodies, all forms of femininity, and all ages. On Monday’s runway, there wasn’t just one “gâtée”, there were many. Just like the women, there were abundant unique expressions of femininity. A way for MaisonCléo to nurture a strong bond with women while cheekily challenging a fashion industry that still hesitates when it comes to true inclusivity.
With La Gâtée, MaisonCléo delivers more than just a summer wardrobe: it’s a love letter to the Mediterranean, to diverse bodies, and to responsible fashion. By taking over the Porte d’Orient, the brand not only paid tribute to a region, but also to a certain vision of femininity, always plural. An ode to sunshine, vintage fabrics, and fresh momentum. The kind that fuels a fashion movement carving its own path, far from industry norms.
To stay tuned to this Marseille edition of Slow Fashion Week, follow on @slowfashionweekmarseille, @villemarseille and2901 @baga.colectif.
Article by Julie Boone.
