After years defined by provocation and the absurd, Demna is leaving Balenciaga. His final couture show, held in the historic salons of Avenue George V, felt like a swan song. A look back at the end of an era that coincides with a strategic passing of the torch.
A gallery of Hollywood silhouettes
For his final couture collection, Demna returned to one of his favorite exercises: staging a theatre of characters. In the intimacy of the house’s historic salons, he summoned a full cinematic universe: Hollywood stars, anonymous businessmen, security agents.
The silhouettes are, as always, exaggerated: oversized suits with XXL padded shoulders, rigid leather frame bags designed to weather life’s storms. The wardrobe is built around a multitude of collars, all extravagant culminating in a final showpiece: a collar so high it turns into a hood, swallowing the face in a cocoon of fabric, pure drama. The black dresses impress with their volume, a direct echo of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s architectural legacy. At the other end of the spectrum, ball gowns in powder pink, chick yellow, and sky-blue glide down the runway like porcelain dolls under the spotlight. Humor is always within reach: a floral oilcloth ensemble, complete with a matching bag, pays tribute to Demna’s grandmother’s tablecloths, a reminder that even in haute couture, kitsch can be elevated to the sublime.
A touching closing credit
In the background, a list of first names, those of Demna’s collaborators followed by No Ordinary Love by Sade, closing a chapter that lasted 10 years. As the doors of the French house gently close behind Demna, they open onto a red carpet rolled out for him at another prestigious label, this time Italian: Gucci. The Kering flagship is facing serious challenges, and the group is counting on the Georgian designer’s irreverence to steer it back on course. A risky bet, but one they’re standing by. Taking his place at Balenciaga is Pierpaolo Piccioli, who will step in this autumn after his critically and commercially acclaimed run at Valentino. But before that new chapter begins, the spotlight is on Demna’s final act.
A front row of prestigious guests
For this final curtain call, the casting was curated to match the magnitude of the event. Kim Kardashian channelled a fantasised Elizabeth Taylor, wearing earrings that once belonged to the actress, a nude second-skin gown, and a mink coat draped over her shoulders. At her side: Naomi Campbell, Isabelle Huppert, Michelle Yeoh, Dolly Parton. Each embodied a perfectly calibrated archetype.
The front row was just as spectacular: Aya Nakamura was seated between Katy Perry and Cardi B. Nearby, Nicole Kidman and Lorde also made an appearance. Anna Wintour, impassive behind her signature dark sunglasses, watched the show with the solemnity reserved for momentous occasions.
The final bow mirrored the spirit of the collection. Demna walked briskly through the suite of rooms, blowing kisses to the guests. The only embrace? Reserved for François-Henri Pinault, CEO of Kering, with whom he is about to write a new chapter of fashion history at Gucci.
Balenciaga After the Demna Storm
In ten years, Demna has upended the conventions of couture, introducing a brutal, ironic, at times uncomfortable language, yet one deeply in tune with his era. Blending fashion with performance, his vision for Balenciaga sparked constant conversation. He will be remembered for post-apocalyptic silhouettes, unconventional castings, and his talent for injecting chaos into the established order. But above all, for his ability to make couture resonate in the present. With this final show, the Georgian designer closes a chapter that redefined the contours of “cool” in contemporary fashion. His departure marks more than the end of a cycle at Balenciaga, it signals the close of a cultural and social moment where provocation fueled creativity. Under Piccioli, couture may swap the scream for the elegance of a whisper. But at the helm of Balenciaga, even silence is bound to make noise.
Article by Julie Boone.
