At just 25, Olivier Rousteing became the artistic director of Balmain and made history: he was the first and only Black designer to lead a French fashion house. His appointment in 2011 marked a turning point, symbolizing a new era for French fashion, one that was more inclusive and increasingly digital. Over the next 14 years, he transformed Balmain, skyrocketed its revenue, imposed his spectacular signature style, and drew the world’s biggest stars to his runways. From the Balmain Army and its dazzling embroidered dresses to sculptural silhouettes and his standout appearances at the Met Gala, Rousteing leaves behind a brilliant legacy. Today, he bids farewell to Balmain, with the fashion world eagerly awaiting where he will shine next.
The Balmain Army: A Regiment of Iconic Muses
From the very beginning, Olivier Rousteing understood that fashion no longer lived solely on the runway. It now unfolds on Instagram, across social media, and through collaborations with celebrities. He created the Balmain Army, a true regiment of muses bringing together high-profile public figures and iconic models. Among them: singer Rihanna, British fashion figure Jourdan Dunn, and runway legend Naomi Campbell.
This army is far more than a simple casting, it reflects Rousteing’s many influences as well as his instinctive flair. Ahead of his time, he dressed Kim Kardashian when collaborations with influencers were still relatively rare. A genuine muse, she walked the runway for the house and appeared in the Spring–Summer 2015 menswear campaign alongside her then-husband Kanye West, shot by photographer Mario Sorrenti.
The following season, the Jenner sisters became Balmain’s new ambassadors. This choice both strategic and visionary skillfully blended a “family spirit” with a bold communications move. It contributed as much to the rise of influencers in fashion as it did to the growing visibility of the young designer. With the Balmain Army, Olivier Rousteing redefined how a couture house communicates: each celebrity became a living ambassador, embodying the spirit of the brand as much on social media as on the red carpet.
A Style Instantly Recognizable: The Opposite of Quiet Luxury
Olivier Rousteing’s style is instantly recognisable. Unlike quiet luxury, minimalist and understated, the Balmain woman asserts herself, takes up space, and commands attention.
In the 2010s, his silhouettes stood out with broad shoulders, cinched waists, and intricate embroidery. This calculated opulence transformed every dress and every suit into a true staging of femininity. Rousteing didn’t just design clothes, he created modern armour.
In 2019, he revived couture at Balmain, reaffirming his expertise and boldness with highly elaborate creations.
The 2020s marked a subtle shift. The Balmain woman became alternately glamorous and bohemian, and the house’s spirit expanded well beyond the runway with the launch of the beauty line. The Balmain signature could now be worn on the lips and slipped into a handbag.
A House That Never Stopped Leading the Race
The 2025 Met Gala perfectly illustrates Balmain’s ability to capture the spirit of the moment: Tyla and Rosalía embodied the house’s new generation, dressed in ultra-sculptural creations. True to his eye for detail, Rousteing personally adjusted Tyla’s sand-effect gown with just a couple of snips of his scissors.
In 14 years, Olivier Rousteing transformed Balmain, turning each creation into a symbol of feminine power. In the 2010s, Kim Kardashian embodied the house’s modernity and influence; today, Rosalía and Tyla carry the torch, confirming Rousteing’s ability to anticipate the icons of every generation.
His departure marks the end of an era, but above all highlights the exceptional creativity that has made Rousteing one of the most influential designers of his generation. A true visionary, he reinvented Balmain’s codes with a powerful, instantly recognizable signature that fused couture precision with a sharp sense of modernity.Balmain remains a prestigious house, now led by Antonin Tron but all eyes are turning toward Rousteing’s next chapter: a creator whose boldness will undoubtedly continue to shape contemporary fashion.
