Lingerie that’s no longer just underwear. On runways and in collaborations, it proudly takes the spotlight and captivates brands. More inclusive, more creative, and increasingly political, lingerie is everywhere.
Chantelle, a leading name in French lingerie
As it nears its 150th anniversary, the Chantelle brand proves it hasn’t lost its flair for reinvention. Far from resting on its heritage, the historic lingerie house is multiplying collaborations with rising talents from the emerging fashion scene.
After a standout collaboration with Ester Manas during the SS25 show, Chantelle X, one of the brand’s lines is now teaming up with Alice Vaillant. Presented last week at Paris Fashion Week, Vaillant’s SS26 collection, titled Le Récital, celebrates wire-free lingerie that is both comfortable and sensual.
Sheer effects, airy tulle, and lace inserts make up the select pieces of this collaboration. These aesthetic codes echo both Chantelle’s historic craftsmanship and Vaillant’s couture DNA, with lace having become one of her signature elements over the seasons.
More than just a collaboration, this partnership feels like a natural fit. Above all, it reflects the clear strategy of a century-old house: to win over a new generation without turning its back on tradition. Proof that even at 150, you can still turn heads.
Slow fashion and designer lingerie: the MaisonCléo case
While lingerie is gaining favor among luxury ready-to-wear brands, it’s also attracting the interest of eco-conscious labels like MaisonCléo. Founded by Marie Dewet, the Lille-based brand has built a strong reputation far from industrial standards. Its ethical and transparent vision now extends to its upcoming lingerie line, which has just unveiled its first pieces.
After making a strong impression at the first edition of Marseille’s Slow Fashion Week with a show staged beneath the monumental Porte d’Orient, the brand continues to make waves. By affirming its eco-responsible values, MaisonCléo stands out as one of the few truly sustainable alternatives in a market still largely dominated by fast fashion.
Because while lingerie requires specific expertise, it often remains the domain of industrial giants, where production speed takes precedence over quality and commitment. By entering this space, MaisonCléo isn’t looking to compete with these powerhouses, but rather to carve out a niche for customers seeking unique, ethical pieces.
Lingerie in all its forms
Lingerie is increasingly establishing itself as an inclusive form of expression, exemplified by designer Willy Chavarria’s work. True to his vision of gender-fluid and socially engaged fashion, he recently launched the Willy Underwear Collection, described as “an everyday underwear line for everyone.” This intimate wardrobe is designed beyond gender, where comfort and sensuality are not reserved for any one body type.
A regular collaborator with adidas, Chavarria continues his mission to make clothing a tool for self-expression, particularly for women, queer individuals, and members of the LGBTQIA+ community.
“Underwear is our most intimate clothing,” he reminds us. Intimate, yes, but also profoundly political.
Committed from the very beginning to truly inclusive fashion, Ester Manas continues this approach in lingerie. With Chantelle X, she unveils a collection designed for a diversity of body types, staying true to her mission of dressing all bodies without compromising on style or comfort.
Whether through capsule collections or collaborations, these still too rare initiatives signal a meaningful shift. Lingerie no longer hides. It’s on display, unapologetically. No longer just an invisible accessory, it has become a statement piece, designed to exist on and with all bodies, all genders, all identities.
