Still tied to the pop aesthetic of the 2010s, over-the-knee boots are now making a striking comeback on the runway. Once overlooked, they’re gradually reclaiming ground on their way into our wardrobes. Worn as part of a monochrome total look, styled with bold volumes, or reimagined with a utilitarian twist, they’re shedding the ultra-sexy image that long defined them to explore new fashion territories. Let’s break it down.
Yet another revival
Yes, but this revival comes with many facets. While major retailers may have pushed over-the-knee boots into the background in recent seasons, fashion houses never truly let them go. This season, they’re everywhere. At Ferragamo, they’re part of a head-to-toe green look, playing with monochrome elegance. Alaïa and Balmain take a similar approach, letting the boots vanish seamlessly into the silhouette: they become a second skin, almost invisible, like a natural extension of the leg. At Gucci, they’re the star of an audacious, colorful composition, where burgundy, mustard, and lime green intertwine in an ultra-sophisticated palette. Chloé, true to its bohemian spirit, offers a softer version: the boots peek through the sheer fabric of a dress, with the material deliberately tucked inside to draw the eye and create a striking contrast between airy lightness and the firmness of leather. The result? A commanding silhouette that still retains its sense of ease.
It’s often the details, even the subtlest ones, that make all the difference. Isabel Marant adds character with horizontal zips, while Acne Studios plays with unexpected, almost utilitarian straps. At Bottega Veneta, over-the-knee boots are crafted in the house’s signature woven leather, becoming a canvas for artisanal savoir-faire. In contrast, Courrèges and Balenciaga embrace radical simplicity with ultra-minimalist designs, true heeled socks that revive the spirit of the 2010s.
Men are not to be outdone
Men are embracing over-the-knee boots too and not timidly. At Saint Laurent, in Anthony Vaccarello’s Fall-Winter 2025 collection, male models strode the runway in rigid, thigh-adjustable boots, sometimes blending seamlessly with leather trousers, other times standing out against tailored suit pants. Inspired by the BDSM wardrobe, they bring a fresh energy to masculine silhouettes. Actor Pedro Pascal even sported them on the red carpet at the premiere of The Last of Us series.
At the other end of the spectrum, some houses are exploring a more functional approach. Aigle, for instance, reinterprets its own utilitarian codes by reinventing oversized fisherman’s boots. Less dramatic, but just as assertive, they reflect a desire to anchor the over-the-knee boot in everyday life, far from runways and red carpets. In both cases, the men’s over-the-knee boot seems intent on going mainstream. The only question left: which boot will you slip into?
Over-the-knee boots: A how-to guide
Worn directly on the skin, they slip under a sweater dress or an oversized shirt for a look that’s as comfortable as it is sensual. Styled over leather trousers, they play the tone-on-tone card, borrowing codes that are equal parts military and BDSM. And for those who still hold a soft spot for the 2010s, they can be pulled over ultra-skinny jeans, a deliberate nod to the pop silhouettes once championed by Ariana Grande.
Content creator Marie Gaguech proves the point. While on a press trip with Longchamp, she chose an XXL pair of over-the-knee boots. Torn between a black version and a burgundy one, she shows that these boots still have undeniable impact.
Far from a mere nostalgic comeback, the over-the-knee boot is asserting itself as a piece in transformation. Reinvented by fashion houses, reappropriated by influencers as well as menswear, it defies labels. More versatile and at times even conceptual, it proves this season that it has reclaimed center stage, and this time, for good.
