Spring/Summer 1995, Paris. The runway starts two hours behind schedule. An exasperated Madonna walks out, only to later appear in one of the show’s signature looks in her Take a Bow video. It was one of the defining moments in John Galliano’s career. A collection inspired by the pin-up imagination, reworked with the precision of English tailoring. Sexy yet exacting, playful without tipping into parody, it confirmed Galliano as a true prodigy. Thirty years on, the show remains an absolute reference point in contemporary fashion history.
John Galliano made his official debut in 1984, upon graduating from the prestigious Central Saint Martins in London. At the time, his talent was undeniable, but the means were lacking. With no financial backing, he even skipped a season (Autumn/Winter) shortly before the 1995 show. Yet two major figures in the industry came to his unwavering support: Anna Wintour and André Leon Talley, then pillars of Vogue US. They believed in his potential and helped him stay in the game.
An iconic show
Presented during the Spring/Summer 1995 season in Paris, the collection nicknamed “Pin-Up” opened under chaotic circumstances. The show ran two hours late, guests grew restless, and Madonna stormed out, only to later wear one of its standout looks in her Take a Bow video. Proof that, despite the turmoil, Galliano’s creative vision struck right on target.
In a packed venue, a 1950s Cadillac stood in the middle of the runway. Inside, two men sat with no role other than to be approached, brushed past, and circled by the models. A playful, ironic nod to the male gaze that the collection itself set out to challenge.
Galliano drew inspiration from the figure of the pin-up, which had been losing cultural relevance since the 1970s. Steering away from overly literal interpretations, he reimagined this feminine archetype with nuance. He fused the unabashed sensuality of the American icon with the precision of British tailoring. What emerged was no longer a pin-up to be gazed upon, but a woman in full command of her image: an hourglass silhouette, cinched waists, structured shoulders, long fluid dresses… Clothing turned into a genuine storytelling instrument.
Some pieces even embraced spectacular volume, like the “meringue” dresses whose tutus brushed against the front row. Among the models on the runway was none other than Linda Evangelista, walking alongside Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell. Evangelista fell in love with a lemon-yellow gown, so much so that she convinced Galliano to give it to her. Years later, she donated it to the Met Museum’s Costume Institute, sealing its status as an iconic piece.
Galliano, the man everyone wants
Taken as a whole, the collection confirmed that Galliano was not only a storyteller of fashion, but a visionary tailor. Beyond the whimsical silhouettes, the show cemented his technical mastery. His grey suit, worn by Yasmeen Ghauri, featuring a bolero jacket and high-waisted skirt is now a collector’s piece, reselling for more than €6,000.
This display of craftsmanship won over LVMH, which appointed him Artistic Director of Givenchy. The first time a British designer had ever taken the helm of a French couture house. But Galliano didn’t stop there: barely a year later, he was named at Dior, where he imprinted his flamboyant style for more than a decade.
The 1995 “Pin-Up” show is more than a visual archive: it marks a turning point. The moment Galliano moved from promising designer to confirmed genius. The moment it became clear that fashion could reconcile extravagance with precision, fantasy with cut. Thirty years on, the show retains its evocative power. Here, Galliano laid the foundations of a femininity that is shifting, dramatic, and free. A fashion manifesto, but above all, a living archive.
