A 2010s icon and a darling of the indie-sleaze aesthetic revived by Gen Z, the officer jacket or rather the true hussar jacket is making its way back into wardrobes. Combining military heritage, British rock, and a hefty dose of nostalgia, this legendary piece is staging a comeback that refuses to be shelved.
Goodbye Y2K style, make way for Indie. Sleaze
While fashion seemed stuck on repeat with the Y2K aesthetic, it’s the Indie Sleaze look that’s ultimately making a noticeable comeback. This movement, which emerged in the early 2010s, is defined by its unmistakable codes: officer jackets, the first it-bags, iconic it-girl figures, “messy” makeup with kohl and heavy mascara à la Taylor Momsen, studded leather boots, and skinny jeans that create a silhouette that’s both rock-inspired and effortlessly nonchalant.
At the time, Kate Moss reigned as the ultimate high priestess of the look. Interestingly, no one called it “indie sleaze”, yet the term came later. Back then, people simply referred to it as “indie” or even “hipster.” As one Reddit user summed it up:
“Indie sleaze never existed until Gen Z invented it. We were all just called hipsters lol.”
What was once a spontaneous, slightly chaotic aesthetic has now become a highly codified movement that Gen Z is trying to revive in its original spirit.
A military legend turned rock icon
The standout piece we thought we were rediscovering under the name “officer jacket” is in fact often a hussar jacket or more precisely, a dolman: a short, heavily embellished jacket inspired by ceremonial officers’ uniforms. Decorated with gold or silver braiding, it carries the distinctive prestige of military dress.
Like many elements borrowed from the martial wardrobe: caps, fatigues, combat boots, it was first reclaimed by artists. In the 1960s, Jimi Hendrix, Keith Richards, and Mick Jagger made it their own, transforming the jacket into a true rock symbol.
In the early 2000s, the epauletted, braided jacket resurfaced. At Alexander McQueen, as early as Spring–Summer 2003, silhouettes oscillated between pirate and officer, as if emerging from sea foam or stumbling out of an after-party. Across the Channel, Balmain embraced the iconic piece under Christophe Decarnin, who injected rock-infused, thoroughly modern energy into the house. The defining silhouette of the late 2000s? Balmain even before Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain Army took over. Decarnin had already set the stage.
From the archives to today’s collections
Today, it’s not just the original jackets making a comeback, the entire arsenal of the indie-sleaze era is being unearthed. Among the returning relics: the iconic, sky-high Jeffrey Campbell platforms.
Vintage shops and second-hand platforms are naturally riding the wave. But designers themselves are diving back in as well, mainly at McQueen, where Sean McGirr is putting his own spin on the piece.
How to make the trend your own today?
To wear this piece without veering into uniform territory or historical reenactment, the key is to soften its military heritage. The jacket is a statement in itself: it needs to catch the eye while still fitting into a contemporary silhouette.
You can play with proportions by pairing them with oversized jeans, whose volume creates an interesting contrast with the dolman’s fitted cut. The rest of the outfit can stay deliberately minimal: a crisp white T-shirt or a well-cut tank top is enough to balance the look. The goal is to let the jacket take centre stage.
Some, on the contrary, choose to fully embrace the jacket’s rock heritage. That’s the case for stylist and content creator Laura Le Marquand, who often opts for an all-black look.
Whether you go for understatement or a sharper, more directional silhouette, the key is to keep the rest of the outfit simple so the jacket’s exceptional character can stand out.
Today, it’s being reborn through the messy, daring spirit of the early 2010s, opening a new chapter for a piece that has already lived a thousand lives. Blending military heritage, rock influences, and the era of micro-trends, the dolman proves that some pieces don’t just come back, they keep writing their own story, generation after generation.
