It’s a telling appointment that reflects the current state of the fashion world. Meryll Rogge, a Belgian designer still relatively unknown to the public, has just taken the helm at Marni, the Italian fashion house renowned as much for its craftsmanship as for its playful, childlike spirit. She succeeds Francesco Risso, who had held the position for nearly ten years. Her nomination marks a new chapter for the brand and brings a breath of fresh air, to an industry where women are still largely underrepresented in artistic leadership roles. Portrait.
A Transatlantic Journey
The OTB group (which owns Diesel, Maison Margiela, Jil Sander, and AMIRI) counts only one woman at the artistic helm of one of its major brands: Meryll Rogge, newly appointed. She is also one of the rare women to lead a fashion house she did not create herself. A reality still all too uncommon in the industry. Though she remains little known to the public, her work is already widely praised by critics. There is a good reason for this: she brings a free-spirited vision to clothing, full of humor and artistic references.
A graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Meryll Rogge began her career in New York at Marc Jacobs. There, she honed her skills before returning to Europe to join Dries Van Noten, one of the renowned “Antwerp Six” as head of women’s design. This is where she refined her taste for prints and the subtle play of contrasts. At the same time, she also contributed to Dries Van Noten’s beauty line and stated in an interview with Vogue Business that she enjoys “thinking for other brands”, a way of approaching fashion as a form of dialogue.
In 2020, she launched her own eponymous label. By 2021, she won the Emerging Talent of the Year award at the Belgium Fashion Awards, followed by Designer of the Year in 2024, becoming the first woman to receive this honor. In June 2025, she was awarded the prestigious ANDAM Grand Prize, highlighting her status as a designer. Her appointment as artistic director of Marni thus appears as a natural culmination: it crowns a career which was built step by step, marked by extraordinary awards and recognition from her peers. A final validation in an industry where such symbolic milestones, especially for women, remain essential.
A signature style
In her Fall-Winter 2025 collection, Meryll Rogge cites artist Gordon Matta-Clark and an old wallpaper shop in her hometown of Ghent as sources of inspiration. The outcome: a wardrobe built like a living collage. Floral patterns, checks, blocks of turquoise, red, brown, and purple colors and prints clash and mingle through vibrant silhouettes. Volume is created with knots, layering, and unexpected cut-outs.
One piece in particular stands out: a pair of trousers that reveals what lies beneath through an inverted opening, almost like an apron worn backwards. Through these layered effects, the designer evokes the passage of time like wallpaper being applied one sheet over another over the years. It’s also a nod to her eco-conscious approach: she works with deadstock fabrics and embraces upcycling. This vision of fashion aligns perfectly with that of Marni, the Italian house known for its thoughtful, local production carried out in its own ateliers.
What’s the future for Marni?
Marni is going through a pivotal moment. Despite showing growth, the brand struggles to compete with other OTB houses, notably Maison Margiela and Diesel, both experiencing strong momentum. Founded in 1994, Marni quickly made a name for itself internationally, with boutiques designed more like art galleries or artist residences, a far cry from conventional retail spaces.
Marni is a playground for artists, for stylists, and for clients. A house with a strong identity, steeped in childhood references, bold colors, and renowned Italian craftsmanship. The arrival of Meryll Rogge promises to reignite that spark with her playful approach to fashion. An artistic direction that seems perfectly suited to this iconoclastic Maison. One to watch closely.
